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Johannesburg

Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

27th December 2023

Revisiting Johannesburg: The City of Gold

South Africa’s ‘City of Gold’ – Johannesburg – is widely referred to as Joburg or sometimes Jozi for short. You can even use ‘Egoli’ which means ‘place of gold.’ For those in the know, the city has become more than simply an overnight stop between flights. Johannesburg has been described as ‘the new cool capital of the Southern Hemisphere.’ Done the right way, it is a destination which merits a minimum two night stay.

Joburg is the financial capital of Africa, a complex combination of first and third world cities, vibrant and alive with art, fashion and design. It is definitely ‘the’ city to explore to get real insight into the soul of South Africa. But the city is also vast and difficult to navigate, so it is best done with a professional guide.

Most visitors end up staying in Sandton or Rosebank or somewhere in the northern suburbs or close to the airport. That’s ok, as long as you don’t confuse business centers like Sandton and Rosebank – with their business hotels and shopping malls – with the city itself. Downtown and in the areas closer to the center of the city is where it all happens: the street life, the architecture, art installations, food & drinks, graffiti – the rough edges which make it alive and interesting.

Having lived and worked in Johannesburg for several years I will admit to having a soft spot for it. For one thing, the weather is pretty much perfect. Cool in the winter but hardly ever below freezing, and never too hot in summer, with maximums around 85F. The city has a somewhat undeserved reputation for being ‘dangerous’ but in reality it is not dissimilar to most large cities anywhere in Africa – and beyond. Potentially dangerous if you stray into the wrong place at the wrong time. Otherwise just like anywhere else.

In an attempt to stay somewhat up to date with conditions, trends, ‘new’ places to see and visit and to revisit some favorite spots, I periodically venture out in Johannesburg, accompanied by a professional driver-guide. Which is the proper way to do it, and which we recommend for our guests.

Constitution Hill

This last November, Kathy and I did a day tour with a driver-guide from Jarat Tours and a step-on guide – James Delaney from Jo’burg Gurus. We revisited Constitution Hill, where visitors can witness and learn about some of the harsh conditions and regulations which prisoners from the apartheid era had to endure. Many men and women were incarcerated within its walls during its 100-year history and it is sobering to reflect on the humiliations and injustices to which its inmates were subjected. Despite all that, there is an air of renewal and promise in the visit as well when you enter and look around the Constitutional Court (South Africa’s supreme court). Many of the bricks used in the construction of the highest court of the land came from the now-demolished Awaiting Trial Block, part of the old prison complex.    

A bit later, we drove to Maboneng – a revitalized neighborhood – where we met our guide, James Delaney, over a cup of coffee. Maboneng, the adjacent Jewel City and nearby graffiti hotspots make for interesting observations of an African city in transition. Several areas have been creatively converted from abandoned warehouses or office blocks to vibrant districts with street art murals, African craft traders, good coffee and people watching.

We walked around the area for a bit, checking out a couple of studios, shops, and restaurants, before strolling over to the Jewel City area. We observed some interesting graffiti and wall art and enjoyed a brief chat with some of the locals. It was refreshing and insightful to be around ‘regular’ people in South Africa and to just be a bystander in an area where Joburg residents were going about their business.  This is of course not the case in the safari properties where guests meet and interact with mostly professional hospitality staff.

Victoria Yards

Our next stop was Victoria Yards where James Delaney has his art studio. Just 20 minutes from Johannesburg airport, this 100-year-old complex of Victorian-era industrial buildings (originally a steam laundry) has become home to a variety of artists, teachers, learners and other creative enterprises. I was immediately captivated by the red brick buildings contrasting with the bright green vegetable gardens and fruit trees. I soon realized that there’s quite a bit to see and do at Victoria Yards. Currently, Victoria Yards has more than 50 tenants which include artists, crafters, ceramicists, clothes makers, furniture designers and a jeweler – and on a tour you can meet the people making these inspiring African creations. Well-known artists including James Delaney and Blessing Ngobeni, and fashion designer Tshepo all have studios here.

Victoria Yards has a coffee shop with bakery, a sorbet shop, pizza, and a fish & chips restaurant which we will definitely try the next time we are there. Our advice? Take your time, support the local economy and pick up some gifts before your next flight. Kathy bought a couple of Shwe bags, a steal at about US$10 for a small bag, and up to US$25 for a bigger size. Otherwise just slow down and have a snack in this gentle setting. There’s a craft gin distillery and bar on the premises as well.

Victoria Yards is in an old suburb of Joburg (on the border of Bertrams and Lorentzville) close to downtown, on the edge of some rough neighborhoods, but it is a safe enclave. The surrounding disadvantaged community benefits directly from opportunities created there. Victoria Yards also has a school for local children on the premises and many community projects. We think it is ideal for American guests who have a few hours to kill either on their day of arrival or before their flight back. From Victoria Yards we went to 44 Stanley for lunch. It’s likewise a great spot, similar to Victoria Yards (same developer) but more retail focused. 44 Stanley – which is in Braamfontein Werf – is a collection of light industrial buildings set amid picturesque courtyards with pretty greenery. The mostly boutique stores offer unique goods, from local designer labels to ceramics, furniture and Joburg mementos.

The Wilds

Facing the daunting prospect of a 16-hour flight commencing later that day,  a stroll in The Wilds – a pocket park right on the edge of downtown Johannesburg – was just what the doctor ordered. For many years The Wilds was a ‘no go,’ crime-ridden area. No more. All thanks to the effort of James Delaney and the thousands of Joburg volunteers inspired by him. The results of years of restoration and upkeep, including a huge sculpture installation which led to more and more public involvement, has turned The Wilds into a delightful spot to visit. The sizable area, mostly encompassing large hillsides planted with South African flora, is beautifully maintained and safe, with people enjoying picnics on a nice warm Jo’burg summer day. The Wilds nature reserve is just minutes from the inner city, but you’ll feel like you’re far away. There are many sculptures, great views of the Joburg city skyline – and walking is great for the body and mind, even if you don’t have a long flight scheduled. 

James Delaney is a contemporary painter and printmaker with a myriad of other interests, hobbies and passions. From designing parks and safari lodges to marketing and photography, among others. With his diverse interests and experience gained while traveling the world (more than 53 countries including regular annual visits to New York City), and his entertaining conversational style, James is the ideal guide on a spontaneous ‘let’s see what happens next’ tour incorporating some of his favorite spots in Jo’burg. You can find James Delaney’s art studio at Victoria Yards in Lorentzville, Space No: 8G2 (Victoria Yards is open 9am to 5pm on weekdays; 10am to 5pm on Saturdays; 10am to 4pm on Sundays). Follow him on Instagram @delaneyartist, or visit his website at delaney.co.za

James’ brother Simon Delaney – an attorney in Jo’burg – is also a part time guide with Jo’burg gurus and he is the person for guests who want to delve a bit deeper in the struggle against  apartheid and its aftermath, and specifically the Mandela experience.  

For more information about our custom trips to Southern Africa which often include a day or two in Johannesburg, call us in Houston at 1 800 513-5222 or send an email to bert@fisheaglesafaris.com. 

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Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

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Trip notes: Sabi Sand Reserve and Zimbabwe

We visited several other properties during our recent trip in South Africa and Zimbabwe. Every one of these deserve a detailed review but we will focus on what sets them apart.

SAVANNA PRIVATE GAME RESERVE – SABI SAND

If there is a safari camp which strikes the perfect balance between creature comforts and activities (game drives mostly) this property is it. The rooms are simply exquisite and every little thing is perfect, from the snacks and drinks which are included (the variety!) to the heated plunge pool, the beautiful garden setting, the waterholes on the periphery of the camp, the dining (wow) and the outstanding staff. Did I mention the game-viewing and the guiding? Fantastic. On a morning drive, our guide Jamie and tracker Ronald expertly located a pride of lions and before we knew it, we had seen all of the Big Five mammals.  

At one stage we were watching three female lions seemingly poised to take on an adult buffalo bull with five white rhinos within view just thirty meters to the right. Not 30 minutes later we were following Ravenscourt – a simply gorgeous movie star of a leopard – as he walked in and out of a natural drainage line close to the homestead belonging to the Mackenzie family, who owns Savanna. I think I would be morally obliged to sell my camera equipment if I didn’t get a great leopard shot that morning. Stay a few days and you might find yourself dining in an old railcar dating back to the days of the Selati Railroad, or making a visit to a nearby village which is home to many of the camp staff.

LEOPARD HILLS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

This was my second visit to Leopard Hills Private Game Reserve and if anything, it was even better than the first. The stunning lounge and dining room complex overlooking the woodland and water hole, the superbly appointed rooms and the inviting library and boma complex all brought back fond memories. Our ebullient guide Justin De la Rey imparted knowledge seemingly effortlessly and displayed a well-developed sense of ethics in his careful approach to a leopard den site. Justin and his colleague, expert tracker Ronald Gumede, are a formidable pair. We will definitely be requesting them for future guests. 

The food? Next level. Every meal was outstanding, topped by a singularly memorable boma experience. Head chef Cobus Muller personally introduced the menu and every item exceeded my expectations. Boma meals often disappoint with overcooked, dry meats and mundane side dishes. Not this one. Lamb chops, pork spare ribs, oxtail stew – it was impossible to make a bad choice. The expertly prepared side dishes included traditional South African pap with a tomato sauce, potatoes in a lyonnaise style, cauliflower au gratin, corn on the cob and curried dahl. We could go back just for the food. 

LINKWASHA CAMP, HWANGE

Linkwasha is Wilderness’ flagship tented camp in Hwange National Park, located in a stunning setting of teak forest bordered by open grassland and salt pans in southern Hwange. Our two days there with guide Farai Chuma were packed with excitement as he reintroduced us to the joy and fascination of seeing a true professional wildlife guide in action. 

Always careful and safety conscious, Farai helped us find everything we had come to see, notably cheetahs. Two magnificent male cheetahs gave us the full show. Employing every trick in their playbook, they started off by demonstrating their mutual affection, cuddling up and rubbing their faces together. Which was great, but small potatoes in comparison with what came next. Following each other at about 50 meters or so, the two brothers climbed on anthills, jumped onto logs, scrambled up tree trunks and scent-marked multiple times, several times staring right into my lens. All while Farai had us lined up in just the right spot to capture the action. His knowledge of exactly which specific trees or other objects the cheetahs would use to scent mark was uncanny. We predict great things for Farai – who will hopefully complete the final phase in the process of obtaining his ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guiding license this coming December. We hope to have him guide some of our guests in future.  

MUSANGO SAFARI CAMP, LAKE KARIBA

With long-time owner and story-teller in chief Steve Edwards operating the throttle, Kathy and I and two other guests – from Germany – traversed quite a few kilometers by boat in and out of Musango Safari Camp, tucked away in a dense forest on a private island with views in every direction. Bumi Hills, Lake Kariba, the Matusadona mountain range; depending on the light and the time of the day, they create a remarkably photogenic setting. To say that the experience at Musango is multi-layered is to do it a disservice. It is much more than that. By the time we had to say farewell to Steve, Robin and Graham – who is poised to continue the Musango tradition – we felt like we had hardly scratched the surface. It was only on the last day that we were introduced to Steve’s truly incredible collection of stone age tools, preserved organisms (scorpions and more) and simply stunning fossil finds. Most of which Steve had personally collected while tracking black rhinos all over Matusadona National Park.  

Rhino tracking is no longer on the list of Musango activities, but not a whole lot else has changed since Steve and his wife Wendy opened the lodge some 30 years ago.  You can still sit quietly in a special bird hide in the forest, waiting for colorful birds to hop into view, perching on a stick right above a sizable birdbath. The attractions of Lake Kariba itself haven’t changed either: sundowner outings on a covered pontoon, tiger fishing during the warmer months, a boating safari observing elephants and buffaloes & whatever else is present along the shoreline. On one morning outing along the Nyamasango river, we racked up an impressive number of bird sightings, culminating in an African fish eagle being enticed to swoop in and snatch up a fish from the surface of the water. Did I get the classic shot of the eagle with talons extended? Alas not, but Klaus – one of the German guests – did.

While we missed them during our stay, a pride of lions regularly make their way into the area close to the camp. Above all, this little slice of paradise is the ideal spot for a change of pace from bumpy safari rides. Take a seat and look out over the most gorgeous watery amphitheater stretching out to the horizon. Where at night the lights of the kapenta fisherman far away on the lake could easily be mistaken for a bridge to Zambia. Enjoy a local beverage while listening to one of Steve’s stories and appreciating his finely tuned sense of humor. And prepare yourself for the most delectable meals, served al fresco. PS. Do not pass on the starter. It would be a mistake.  

PALM RIVER HOTEL, VICTORIA FALLS

The Palm River is a brand new addition to the many hotels, guest houses and lodges populating the area close to the Falls and beyond. We give it an enthusiastic thumbs up for four reasons:  

*Its location right on the banks of the Zambezi, which practically makes it unique among all similar hotels in Vic Falls.

*The rooms. Excellent design with views toward the Zambezi, high ceilings, great lighting, ultra comfortable bed, pre-stocked minibar (included – pay for restocking only), large bathroom with good walk-in shower, double sink, plenty of storage space,  effective air-conditioning and a safe.  

*Beautiful natural garden setting with tightly cropped lawns, an easily negotiable (non-slippery) walkway, a pool just far enough away from the common area and an inviting open-air bar and dining area.

*The food. Both dinner and breakfast were delectable, as was the 3:30 pm afternoon tea. Smoked salmon on a thin piece of bread, individual carrot cake and delicious sugar cookies. A nice selection of coffee – espresso machine with several choices – and premier tea bags. 

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA, SANDTON

There have  been several major structural changes and reconfigurations at Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa in Sandton since our previous visit several years ago. All of which were done quite seamlessly as the place felt very much the same. Step through the door and you immediately know you’re in a rarefied environment. The interior look and feel, the artifacts, the silky smooth check-in process; even the gracious porter who accompanied us to our room. Fairlawns is classy in a good way: not overly pretentious or avant garde, just warm and chic. Our room (#2) was spacious and comfortable with good lighting, a nice bath and pretty decent WiFi. Breakfast was excellent. Dinner was good too with the exception of one dessert choice which missed the mark. We will continue to recommend the property as a great spot to spend a couple of nights in the way of a ‘mini-holiday’ at the start or end of a safari. A place to savor an al fresco meal, lounge poolside, enjoy the highly acclaimed spa and simply relax. Want to venture out to restaurants or other attractions in the area or do some shopping? No problem. Fairlawns is less than four miles from Sandton City, one of southern Africa’s premier shopping centers.

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Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

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Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park


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Timbavati Game Reserve, Kruger Park

The Timbavati Game Reserve, a massive privately operated game sanctuary adjacent to the west of the central portion of Kruger Park, is sometimes overshadowed by its better known neighbor to the south, the Sabi Sand Reserve.

In reality, there’s not much to choose between the two reserves, in terms of the overall safari experience.  In short, they are both excellent.  In some ways the Timbavati in fact outshines its more popular rival to the south.  It is more remote, the vehicle density is less, and the prices are on average a good bit less than the Sabi Sand, making Timbavati the best value option of the private reserves.  The guiding is good to excellent in both reserves.  Guiding proficiency is usually more closely associated with a specific lodge than with a reserve.


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All in all, the Timbavati is about as ‘bushveld’ as it gets, with a typical mix of acacia thickets, patches of riverine bush, open savannah and large swathes of mature woodland.  Its average altitude above sea level is barely 500 meters, which makes for balmy, dry winter months from about May through August and September, which is also the ideal time to visit.  Like the Sabi Sands, the Timbavati is also completely open to the Kruger Park on its eastern boundary, allowing for free and unfettered movement of animals from the national park.


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KAMBAKU RIVER SANDS

On a return visit to the Timbavati last May, I spent several days at four different camps, and re-discovered the appeal of this attractive slice of African wilderness.  My first stop was Kambaku River Sands.  Kambaku River Sands is a well-managed property in a game-rich area of the Timbavati.  Right from the word go I sensed that they had their act together and everything I experienced over the course of my short stay validated the first impression.  Starting with the 10 luxury suites.  They are huge and super comfortable, with a large mosquito net enclosed bed, air-conditioning, a sitting area with chairs and a table, ample lighting, tea and coffee making facilities and a spacious separate bathroom with indoor and outdoor shower and good-sized ball and claw bath.


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The food offerings were excellent throughout, from lunch on arrival, dinner and brunch the next morning.  Nicely prepared and imaginatively presented, and extremely tasty.  Clearly a lot of thought goes into menu planning and food & beverage service.  I did not have much time to spend at the expansive and beautifully wood-crafted bar, but it looked most inviting.  As a unit the lounge and dining room complex is attractive and functional with lots of space and spots where couples and small groups can get together before or after meals, or around the outdoor pool. Elephants come to drink from the pool from time to time, and there is a separate waterhole within sight of the deck as well.


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In just two game drives out of Kambaku I saw a ton of stuff, including a fantastic sighting of a young female leopard in a tree.  We also saw some lions at night, there were lots of elephants, and all the usual plains game species including zebra, impala, wildebeest, giraffe and kudu.  The bush was still quite thick (early May) so clearly game-viewing will be even better as the dry season advances.

The following morning’s game drives out of Kambaku produced an elephant sighting which was just as spectacular as the ‘leopard in a tree’ of the previous day.  Being early May, there was not a great abundance of animals.  The area is densely wooded and after the rains game viewing can be challenging.  However when you do come up on something good, there are few, if any  other vehicles around.


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A spectacular elephant sighting on this drive had just two vehicles witnessing it. Which is almost too bad because it was a ‘once in 20 years’ type of sighting: an amazing spectacle with about 20 young elephant bulls testing their strength in a quasi-serious jousting contest, half-submerged in a lake.  Right in front of us.  In near perfect light.  If you visit Africa maybe one time only and experienced only this, you’d understand why a photo safari is such a satisfying experience on so many levels.

There’s the sheer visual appeal of it, naturally.  A hankering to see big mammals alive and kicking in their natural habitat is just skin-deep in most people, I suspect.

There’s the sense of discovery and of seeing new things, all while completely escaping the daily grind of our overscheduled, overly busy lives.


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There is an underlying sense of apprehension and a tinge of danger, in the proximity of particularly the big cats but also elephants.  Return visitors will recall that very first time their guide drove them right up to a pride of lions. You know it is safe and you are told that the big cats don’t pay attention to people sitting still in the vehicle.  But what if…

The sense of anticipation and the surprise element.  Don’t we all thrive on being pleasantly surprised?  On safari it happens often and sometimes when you least expect it.  Just like the following day’s events would reinforce, a game drive isn’t over until it is over.  Anything can happen and often does, sometimes in the last few minutes of a drive.

Of course, you also get to stay in some wonderful places, hosted by people whose only mission is to keep you happy and content.


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KINGS CAMP

Returning to Kings Camp after an absence of several years, it was reassuring not to have to work too hard to remember the first time.  Other than a few small changes (a new spa area, new decking, more outdoor spaces) it had remained essentially the same.  A timeless classic where all your African safari expectations are met and exceeded.  The near palatial rooms with mosquito net enclosed king bed, an inviting clawfoot bathtub, inside and outside shower and plunge pool (in the honeymoon suites), will wow just about anybody. 


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Both meals I enjoyed at Kings Camp were exemplary: a delicious breakfast on my day of departure and a multi-course boma dinner the night before. The array of menu items was quite impressive and enticing, ranging from lots of fresh veggies to a deconstructed mixed salad, pork belly, roast chicken, braised oxtail stew, and a stir fry station.  With several other side dishes and finished off with a lovely malva pudding for dessert.

The two game drives from Kings Camp with my guide Remember were fun and memorable.  Remember is a caring, careful and highly experienced guide who knows the area intimately and takes his time to impart some interesting facts and observations about the various animals, birds, plants, and trees seen.


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The afternoon game drive started out being quite slow but that changed – right towards the end of the drive – with another ‘leopard in a tree’ encounter.  Add to the mix some scavenging hyenas as well as an interloper young male leopard, and things become fascinating in a flash.

We watched spellbound as the younger male got wind of the smell of a carcass in the tree, from which he eventually displaced the older and much heavier male.  In the gathering darkness I managed to capture a few arresting images of the older male exiting the tree, his demeanour and body language reflecting caution and maybe even apprehension.  He was in no mood for a fight in which he stood to lose everything.

The next morning we enjoyed a similarly entertaining and meaningful episode, watching a coalition of two male lions re-connecting early that morning.  Greeting each other like brothers with big grins and some head rubbing, they settled down for a siesta while we went off on a successful search for a female leopard.  Great stuff!


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NGALA TENTED CAMP

By midday in early May, I was enjoying an impeccable lunch at Ngala Tented Camp, a deluxe property on the border of Kruger National Park.  With nine elegant tented rooms – operated by the redoubtable AndBeyond company – Ngala Tented Camp is one of very few properties which we’ve booked for our clients in the past, sight unseen.  It’s always turned out well and now that we’ve been there ourselves, I daresay we will be recommending this place for a lot more guests.

Ngala Tented Camp is intriguing and pleasing visually and artistically, with a blend of old and new, wood and stone, glass and canvas, creating a one-of-a-kind look and feel which is hard to pin down, but easy to like and appreciate.


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The Ngala Tented Camp rooms likewise hit all the right notes.  Not huge but with plenty of space, an exceedingly comfortable bed, a separate bathroom with a big tub (and lots of water with good pressure), a separate enclosed toilet and a particularly nice outdoor shower enclosed in a rock/stone wall.

The room is air conditioned, quiet and private with a range of excellent camp snacks (nuts and fudge), wine, beer and several types of spirits and mixers.  There’s even a recipe for Ngala Tented Camp gin fizz.


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It soon became evident that Ngala Tented Camp is located in a superb game-viewing area.  Over the space of two game drives, afternoon and morning, we managed to find and observe the so-called Big Five mammals without much drama at all.  Notably, three of the five we saw no more than one kilometer or so outside the camp.  In many African safari camps you have to drive for 30 or 40 minutes or more, just to get to where the game is.  Not so at Ngala Tented Camp.  The game is right there.

Our guide Scott was enthusiastic, had a great sense of humor and managed the most difficult of guiding feats (first timers and veteran safari goers on the same drive) with the greatest of aplomb.  Clearly Scott and tracker Ernest are a formidable team, providing their guests with lots of wow moments.

A nice change of pace moment was when Scott got us all out of the vehicle to walk through the bush, making a close approach to a giraffe.  Which turned out to be the most relaxed giraffe ever!


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TANDA TULA CAMP

My last Timbavati camp on this trip was the well-known and perennially popular and well-established Tanda Tula Camp.  Located in the heart of the Timbavati along the Nlharalumi River, Tanda Tula has gained its excellent reputation by doing everything right, consistently.  Good accommodation, great food, pleasing camp ambiance and superb guiding make it a great choice for first timers and safari veterans alike.


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On a couple of game drives with guide Luke and master tracker Jack, I think I gained just as much from the experience as the two young couples from San Francisco for whom it was their first two game drives ever.  Yes, we saw the Big Five but it ended up being much more than that, with Luke imparting some witty and well-informed bits of information and background without being pedantic or repetitive.  Good, fresh information, not the hackneyed ‘Mcdonalds of the bush’ drivel.  For example, I never knew just how short the ‘reign’ of a dominant male Impala was.  Turns out that he has perhaps as few as eight days as the dominant male in charge of his harem of females, before he is supplanted by a challenger.  Guides like Luke take delight in debunking old bush myths and pseudo facts.  All the more reason to have a well qualified guide leading you.  Likewise Jack, who is one of only 25 master trackers working in this field in South Africa.


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Back at the lodge chef Ryan prepared a couple of the best meals I had enjoyed on the trip to date.  A lunch with braised barbecued pork ribs and a delightful dinner with lamb loin chops or braised guinea fowl.  The side of sweet potato croquettes and the kingklip (fish) starter were equally tasty and beautifully presented.  Camp manager Antony and his staff were friendly and caring and I think all the guests enjoyed the good humor and general sense of well-being which suffused the place.  It is not stuffy or serious, just good fun and a great time.  Plus the WiFi works well.


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JOHANNESBURG INTERLUDE

I had not spent a night in downtown Johannesburg in a very long time.  Having lived in the city in a previous life, I am no stranger to it but this was a new experience.  Home for the night was a small boutique hotel – the Hallmark House – chic and ultra modern, located right on the edge of Maboneng, with a mix of accommodation, galleries, retail shops, restaurants and clubs.

Wandering around the place in the late afternoon, I was very much a stranger in his own country, but it was nonetheless interesting to observe from a very different perspective.  I was relieved to find an informal dinner spot, a small hole-in-the-wall with every table taken, which is always a good sign.  The food was simple but exactly what I wanted, and at least for twenty minutes or so, it re-connected me with a place and time long gone.  A traditional ensemble of pap (a rustic version of polenta) with a tomato and onion sauce, a side of spinach and a ‘boerewors’ sausage, South Africa’s celebrated traditional version of bratwurst, characterized by the addition of coriander in the spice mix. Tasted like home.


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The following morning I had time to capture a few photographs of the Maboneng precinct, particularly some of its ubiquitous examples of street art and graffiti. The graffiti were colorful, brash and ephemeral, with many illustrations already starting to peel away and decay.  One hopes that this does not happen to Maboneng itself.  That the promise, the sense of renewal and rebirth visible in so much of it, is not dashed by the harsh realities of commerce and circumstances beyond the control of the locals.  It remains to be seen.

If you’re keen to experience an authentic modern African city environment then definitely yes, spend a couple of nights at the Hallmark House or the nearby CityLodge on the edge of Newtown.  Johannesburg has a vibrant arts and music scene – which I hope to explore on my next visit.  In the way of a true big city with all of its energy, creativity and fascinating people, there are few better than Egoli, South Africa’s city of gold.  What makes Johannesburg doubly interesting is the process of renewal that is taking place.  Blight and decay are making place for hope and aspiration, innovation and ingenuity.  Maboneng being the most visible but hardly the only example.  Newtown and Braamfontein have undergone a similar process of renewal and rejuvenation and are now worthwhile stops on your exploration of Joeys.


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APARTHEID MUSEUM

The young French girl – part of a tour group of some thirty or so students visiting the Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg last May – probably didn’t know what to make of the older man she saw crying, just outside the museum exit.  The man was leaning against a planter, his head down, tears streaming down his face, clearly emotionally devastated by what he had just seen and experienced.  What was he crying about, she might have thought.  If she had stopped and asked, the man would have told her that he was crying for his country of birth, for lives ruined, families destroyed, and hopes dashed.  He was crying because of regret and guilt, with the realization that the failed system of apartheid was a colossal waste of the human spirit, of lives, time, resources and energy.  The French girl saw sadness and pain on his face; what she didn’t see was the unresolved inner conflict, the scars left by living through the worst of the apartheid era.  Even though the man was lucky not to be one of the oppressed, the double-edged sword of racism wounded him just as deeply.  All South Africans were diminished by the system, they just did not all realize it at the time.  Being confronted so vividly and strikingly by the harsh reality of the grave injustice done to millions of people, a lot of old, suppressed feelings and memories were brought to the surface.  Until then, the man thought that he had made his peace with all of this. Clearly he was mistaken.


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I have always had something else or something better and more pressing to do in Johannesburg than visiting the Apartheid Museum.  Until this time.  I now regret not doing it sooner.  For those of us who lived through it all, it is a bitter pill to swallow.  For visitors from abroad, it will be no less impactful and just as shocking to come eye to eye with man’s inhumanity to man.  The Apartheid Museum is important and powerful.  It is also substantial and altogether loaded with information, displays, facts, maps, movies, names, history, interpretation and memorabilia.  At a minimum, it takes a solid two hours to make your way around it, and I could see someone easily spending three or maybe even four hours there, if you wanted to get into the details of all the exhibits.  Don’t rush it.

In part 2 of this South Africa trip report, I make my way to the malaria-free Eastern Cape region.  Coming soon.

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