Cheetahs on foot

The signature Samara Karoo experience is seeing cheetahs on foot. On our first visit in 2024 we ran out the clock looking for them, the issues being too little time (a 2-night visit) and a particularly windy day which resulted in the cheetahs seeking cover in the hills. The second time was the charm. It took a couple of hours but our capable team of Mzi (naturalist guide) and Michael (tracker) located a female cheetah with six cubs along the far eastern edge of the reserve.  

Alighting from the Land Cruiser, we approached the cats on foot, quietly and slowly so as to not alarm or disturb them. The sun was already high in the sky so the light was quite harsh. Even so I managed a few captures of the mother and one or two of the 7-month old youngsters.  

Being on foot quite close to them was a novel experience. Cheetahs are pretty special cats to see under any circumstances and to be able to approach them like this was next level. Getting right down in the damp Karoo vegetation, I had several furry faces casually looking in my direction at their eye level. Mostly, to be sure, they ignored the camera and focused on being cheetahs in the Karoo. The activity is done in a circumspect manner so as not to alarm or displace them.

Picnic on the Kondoa Plateau

From the cheetahs on the Camdeboo plains we drove right up into the slopes of Kondoa Mountain along a gravelly, at times bumpy, track taking us about 2,000 feet up into a quite different habitat: montane grassland. Sometimes referred to as the Samara Mara, the Kondoa Plateau is a haven for animals such as the Cape mountain zebra, black wildebeest, eland, springbok and gemsbok. On a previous trip up to the same spot, we came upon a fresh lion kill (an eland) just off the mountain track. Not so this time, but we had several good sightings of the very special mountain zebras and black wildebeest.

Unbeknownst to us a culinary team from Samara had set up an elaborate al fresco lunch for us and all the other Samara guests, complete with tables and chairs, umbrellas, a wash-up station and a small bush loo. What they didn’t have to set up or bring from camp was the view. It was there and waiting in every direction. The most stupendous views one could ever hope to see, over the Camdeboo valley to the left and Honey Mountain in the far distance. The food was pretty good too: beef kabobs, curried chicken sandwiches, mini quiches, apple crumble mousse and a mixed green salad.

Walking with giraffes – and more cheetah photos

Back on the plains we bumped into a journey of nine giraffes. I was on a quest to get a few more Samara mammal images with mountains in the background and this looked like a good opportunity. To get the right angle, I asked Mzi to stop the vehicle and I hopped off, walking some 50 meters or so to the left of the track. The moment we got out of the vehicle, every single one of the giraffes stopped and turned their heads in our direction. I was quietly hoping that they would move closer together  which they promptly did. In the end I managed a few good exposures with more than just one long neck in the frame. And, as importantly, with mountains in the background!

After promptly dealing with a flat tire, we made our way back to where we’d last seen the family of cheetahs. This time around the late afternoon light was ideal. Spending almost an entire hour observing them with nobody else around was one of the highlights of our stay at Samara. While the cheetahs were not particularly active or highly mobile there were plenty of photo opportunities. As close as we were to them, we were able to truly appreciate the close bond between siblings and collectively with their mother. They were purring and snuggling up to each other and the strength of the familial bond was quite apparent.  

Lions in every direction

No African safari is truly complete without a lion sighting. On our second full day at Samara we were all geared up for a walking safari when two male lions caught our attention. They made it quite impossible for us to ignore them with a ‘competitive roaring’ display like none we’ve ever heard before. First the dominant black-maned Kalahari lion – which had the run of the reserve the last few years or so – started roaring not far from camp. This was shortly followed by an equally vociferous roaring display by an interloper, an equally impressive tawny male which had recently expanded his range. The new arrival was now challenging the established male for mating rights with the female lions, creating an ongoing conflict, which is what we inadvertently stumbled into. We promptly pivoted from walking to following roaring lions around. An easy decision. Anticipating a clash, we followed the dominant male as he stalked through the woodland, determinedly marking his territory. 

When the dominant male suddenly veered off in a different direction our focus shifted to the intruder. To be sure, this powerful male lion was not acting like an intruder at all. He was lying on a rocky slope in broad daylight, roaring away at the top of his clearly powerful lungs. It was a territorial roaring display for the ages. At one stage he was roaring and continued to do so while lying on his side and rolling over on his back. All of which were signals  to his rival that he was not about to back down. The saga continues.

A different group of cheetahs

On our final afternoon game drive at Samara, we came upon a different group of four subadult cheetah siblings. It ended up being an equally good sighting with the four cats moving from our right to our left in beautiful light, and with mountains in the background. Watching them gracefully move through the grass, barely glancing in our direction, was nature at its finest. Eventually they moved right by us toward an old brick structure, a relic from pre-Samara days when the area was a sheep farm. Clambering up the crumbling structure, the cheetahs did what cheetahs do: found a high spot to check for potential prey animals in the distance. It was getting dark so we left them behind and started the trip back to camp. It was the end of a great day on safari. 

A fence is not just a fence

Fences have been coming down in wildlife sanctuaries all over Africa and elsewhere for many years now. There is general agreement that wildlife does better and survives better when they can move around freely. When mammals are able to move from one area to another for grazing or browsing, it allows grasses and other vegetation to recover and it prevents long-term damage to the environment which can take decades to recover.  

At Samara, internal fences separating former livestock farms were likewise dismantled to allow seamless animal movement. The reserve’s high perimeter game fences – which visitors see when entering and leaving and occasionally during game drives – were erected to prevent human-wildlife conflict on neighboring livestock properties. If Samara’s wild lions or elephants were to make it onto neighboring farms, the consequences could be severe, perhaps even leading to retaliatory killing. In an environment like the Karoo and elsewhere, it makes effective conservation virtually impossible without perimeter separation. 

It’s understandable, even predictable, to instinctively dislike high fences in natural landscapes. Superficially, it creates an impression of a private enclosure which runs contrary to the idea of “wild” Africa. However, it is best to think of a fence as a temporary shield. Right now, in many places all over Africa, wildlife surrounded by farms or towns won’t survive without a border to stop poaching and retaliatory killing. These fenced reserves serve as safe refuges where ecosystems recover. The ultimate goal isn’t to lock the animals  in forever. Rather, the long-term objective is  to secure these pockets today so they can be linked into open corridors later.  

In an increasingly fragmented world, these protected, isolated pockets are a vital element in the future of conservation. Samara’s overarching vision is to establish ecological corridors connecting the reserve to three nearby national parks, namely Camdeboo, Mountain Zebra, and Karoo National Park. When this comes to fruition it will form a massive 1.3-million-acre protected area. Sufficient conservation space to restore historical wildlife migrations while allowing sustainable agriculture alongside protected wilderness.  

Breakfast with Samara GM Marnus Ochse

Over breakfast on the large covered stoep at Karoo Lodge with Samara’s genial General Manager Marnus Ochse, the discussion ranged from lion dynamics on the reserve (a hot topic during our stay), to Samara’s world class coffee offerings, to brown hyenas and leopards. Being an accomplished amateur photographer himself, Marnus and I had plenty of stories to share. From dropping cameras to getting lions framed with the Camdeboo Mountains in the background. 

Marnus also talked about the reserve’s core principles which broadly center around the global “4 C’s” framework (Conservation, Community, Culture and Commerce) and  Samara’s partnership with The Long Run. The bottom line: one cannot successfully run a luxury eco-tourism business or protect a landscape without actively integrating and supporting all four. 

Marnus was particularly proud of  the role of the Samara staff members, describing it as fundamental to its rewilding mission. He considers every team member – from management and guides to kitchen staff – to be equal parts of the mission. As we have noted during conversations with staff members on both our visits, everyone understands why the reserve exists and what it strives to accomplish.

In a previous blog post I wrote in some length about Samara’s history and about the Tompkins family who set this monumental conservation project in motion. Their ambitious aims for restoration of biodiversity in the Great Karoo are now a reality. Several large mammals long absent from the area, some for as many as 180 years, are now back and thriving. Wild lions, elephants, cheetahs and buffaloes once again roaming the Karoo. What’s next? If and when the reserve reaches 100,000 acres (it currently stands at 67,000 acres) one might expect to see a few African painted dogs  join the predator mix.  

Beyond the wildlife, Samara offers a consistently excellent guest experience all round. From its accommodation options (Karoo Lodge, Plains Camp and the exclusive-use Manor) to food and beverage offerings, activities and amenities. Even more so than during our first visit, the entire experience was flawless with every staff member being warm and approachable and making us  feel truly welcome. 

Samara is currently offering an attractive long-stay deal (Stay 3 nights, pay for 2) through the end of September 2026, as well as other special offers which include free commercial flights from and back to either Johannesburg or Cape Town, and inclusive of r/t road transfers from Port Elizabeth Airport to the Reserve. For more information about these or for recommendations regarding combining Samara with other South Africa safari properties such as Tswalu Kalahari or one of the Eastern Cape reserves like Kwandwe or Shamwari or Lalibela, contact Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222.

Property photo courtesy Samara Karoo

“I spent four nights in two different camps in South Africa’s Eastern Cape in the middle of March with my family. It was my first time in the area and I must say I really enjoyed it. The first stop was Lalibela Treetops. We flew in the morning from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth (now Gqeberha) and had a road transfer of about an hour to the camp. 

What were some of the highlights? I can start with the staff led by the manager Wynton Fortune – they were fantastic. Likewise our guide Desigan Naidoo – he goes by Des – was very engaging and skilled. The camp itself felt intimate and the rooms were canvas with a thatch roof. Plenty of room with all the necessities. Meals here are communal which is always fun.

The area where you do your game drives is very interesting. The Eastern Cape is a Big Five destination but there’s no malaria which is great for families with kids, or just anybody who’s not keen on taking the malaria pills. The landscape is filled with rolling green hills with ample bushes and trees as well as open savannah. It very much reminded me of parts of Kenya, such as  Lewa and the Masai Mara. Lalibela has abundant plains game including blesbok, impala, zebra, wildebeest, nyala, amongst others. Also plenty of giraffes, good numbers of rhino and lion. We saw a herd of about 300 buffalo and on our last day we got a bit lucky and spent some time viewing a cheetah. There are probably about 50 elephants on the property as well.

Lalibela is very interesting because it is essentially a conservation program being run as a safari destination. Their mission is to expand their acreage, rehabilitate the land, and then let the animals do their thing. It can be strange to be watching a pond full of hippos and then hearing a truck speed by on a nearby public road. I gave this some thought and although some people might find it distracting, I think it is commendable. Just as in Kenya where you’re likely to see the Maasai with their cattle grazing inside a conservancy or alongside a national park. Civilization is not something that can be easily contained but at the same time these wildlife sanctuaries can expand and thrive alongside human populated areas, creating more room for animals to inhabit. With the wildlife essentially repopulating the areas where they naturally occurred before humans displaced them.

From Lalibela, we transferred by road to our next game reserve –  Kariega Ukhozi – and there were some distinct differences. Where Lalibela had rolling hills, Kariega had steep and mountainous ones. The relatively sparse bush and forest was replaced with dense, impassable sections. The open plains remained and just like at Lalibela, the wildlife were abundant. We had a great time with our guide Megan who really knew the area and the animals in it. On our first day we were able to see a mother rhino and her baby. The mother, Thandi, had survived a horrible poaching attempt some years ago. She still bore the scars of the incident but it hadn’t stopped her from giving birth to at least 6 (or maybe 7) calves. Some of whom have gone on to birth or father their own calves. That is the type of impact a place like Kariega can have. 

Just like Lalibela, Kariega was formerly farmland, devoid of many of the large mammals which have been thriving here for several decades now. At one point we were able to easily see at least eight different large mammal species from our game drive vehicle which is always a good sign. We saw plenty of kudu, nyala, blesbok, wildebeest, zebra, rhino, and probably more giraffes than I have seen anywhere else ever. We got to see lions a few times and the area, tucked between the Kariega and Bushman’s rivers, is possibly even more striking than Lalibela. 

Your guide joins you for breakfast and every third night they do a traditional meal in the boma where your guide joins you again. The food was excellent and our rooms were very spacious and included a plunge pool amongst other niceties. Overall both camps and areas impressed me.”

Lyndon and Jason can both assist with more information and trip ideas for Southern Africa, incorporating a few days in the delightful Eastern Cape reserves. Email lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message at 1-800-513-5222 and one of us will be sure to call you back.