A Few of Our Favorite Elephant Destinations
Over the last thirty years plus since Fish Eagle Safaris came into being, our team members have been fortunate to observe thousands of elephants. Even so, there is not one among us who will ever tire or become bored of finding and observing these amazing beasts. They are at the heart of a successful safari and like so many other passionate wildlife enthusiasts, we can and do watch them for hours on end. There are elephants in many areas of eastern and Southern Africa, but these five locations are standouts:
Amboseli National Park
Two things elevate the elephants of Amboseli National Park into superstar status. The one is the fact that they – alone among all the many thousands of African elephants – are the only ones which live and breathe in the rain shadow of Mt Kilimanjaro. With a little bit of luck and skill – and a guide who will already be primed to do this – you too can take a photo putting the elephants between you and the mountain. It’s not too difficult and the results are stellar.
What is the other thing about Amboseli elephants which makes them special? Their white tusks. But don’t all elephants have white tusks? Indeed they do but if there were a dental whiteness standard for elephants as there is for human teeth, then the Amboseli tuskers would be practically off the charts on the bright side. The reason? Observe Amboseli’s elephants for a day or two and you’ll quickly figure it out. They are continuously moving between the woodlands and the swamps. In the swamps they practically submerge themselves while rooting around for edible plants. In the process undergoing a repeated and ongoing tusk cleanup, more effective than any giant elephant toothbrush ever could be.
Chobe National Park, Botswana
Botswana is a reliably good elephant destination and specifically so along the Chobe and Linyanti River, as well as along the Selinda Spillway and Savuti Channel. In those places, elephants gather in their hundreds and sometimes thousands during the dry season as they are dependent on water, having to drink at least once every couple of days or so. By June and through October, this is where they can be seen moving to the water, drinking from it and often getting into it. A Chobe and Linyanti highlight is to see small groups of elephants swimming to nearby islands or simply splashing around. Ideally visitors to the area should spend a good amount of time in the water themselves. On a boat, of course.
The stable platform provided by a boat or skiff is ideal for photography in a spot which is invariably chockablock with subjects: not only the elephants but also as many as three or four species of kingfishers; and several ducks, geese, egrets, cormorants, herons, bee-eaters and storks. Plus an abundance of hippos and Nile crocodiles.
Tsavo East, Kenya
If I had to pick just one favorite spot in all of Kenya with its incredible diversity it would have to be Galdessa Camp on the Galana River, in Tsavo East. At the very base of the intriguing Yatta plateau – the remnant of the world’s longest lava flow – Galdessa is a simply magical spot. Spend half an hour gazing out over the usually tranquil Galana River, and you’ll almost certainly see some interesting birds and mammals in or close to it. Stick around a little longer and an elephant trunk is likely to be extended up and over the edge of the embankment, silently imploring you to roll a tasty doum palm fruit in its general direction. Several elephants habitually swing by the property to avail themselves of these free treats.
The undisputed #1 activity from Galana – which is operated by Sheldrick Wildlife Trust – is a half day trip to the Voi Reintegration unit. This is where your fondest elephant dreams come true. Where you come face-to-face with several subadult elephant orphans being readied for release back into the wilderness. Observe their camaraderie, their unbridled joie de vivre, and reflect how every one of them initially made it to the Sheldrick elephant as orphans. Hungry, lonely, lost little souls, somehow separated from their mothers. Seeing them happy and content, feeding, drinking and playing with the other members of their peer group (they are usually released back into the wilderness together) is one of the most heartwarming, most inspirational, simply magical Africa experiences out there.
Mashatu, SE Botswana
Listen to a group of travelers talking about their upcoming trip to Botswana and you’ll hear them mention the Okavango Delta, Chobe, Moremi. Maybe Kalahari. What you won’t hear is Mashatu. Which is a pity as Mashatu is one of Botswana’s best destinations for elephants – and the big cats. Unquestionably, Mashatu private game reserve in the Tuli block in southeastern Botswana is a hugely underrated safari destination.
Over the course of several visits over the years we have experienced some amazing sightings at Mashatu, several revolving around elephants. The undisputed highlights were a couple of sessions at Mashatu’s Matebole elephant hide. Elephant aficionado heaven. Observe as one, two, a few and then an entire herd of elephants walk right into your field of view, just a few meters away. Put aside the telephoto lens – this is wide angle stuff. Youngsters pushing each other around, big bulls scaring everyone, tiny babies not knowing what their trunks are for. At the height of the dry season it can be an intense experience with even the observers sensing the desperation, sympathizing with the survival instincts so starkly on display there.
While one can never get tired of watching elephants and elephant behavior, Mashatu has plenty of other things to see and do. Spend three or four nights there and you’re likely to see lots of plains game species as well as lions and leopards, and perhaps even cheetahs. They are not always present, but when they are, they are relatively easily seen being diurnal cats which roam around, hunt and kill during the day.
Mashatu lends itself to foot safaris, which can be done in lieu of a game drive at no additional cost, or which can be added as an extra activity at nominal additional cost. At additional cost (not a lot) you can prebook a photographic session in the elephant hide, or embark on a mountain bike safari. If you’re a proficient horseback rider, you may wish to saddle up and go out into the wilderness on a horseback safari.
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
With more than 45,000 elephants resident in greater Hwange National Park, with some seasonal movements mostly within the park, Hwange is solidly in the top three best elephant destinations in Africa. Several of our most memorable elephant viewing experiences occurred at waterholes in Hwange, among others on outings from four Imvelo properties – Jozibanini, Camelthorn, Nehimba and Bomani – and from three Wilderness camps namely Davison’s, Little Makalolo and Linkwasha. In another blog post which can be found here, you can read more about Hwange and what makes it special, beyond the elephants.
On a safari some years ago, Kathy and I were sitting just outside the vehicle on the side of the Makalolo Pan in southern Hwange late one afternoon, observing one after another herd of elephants coming to the water. It was early November and still bone dry, with no early rain having fallen. As a result, the stream of elephants coming to the waterhole was practically never-ending. Herd after herd after herd emerged from the edge of the woodland, the youngsters running ahead in boisterous fashion, all intent on quenching what is usually a substantial thirst in the dry season. We would watch as the elephants initially focused – almost exclusively – on just getting in as much water as fast as they could. Trunkful after trunkful, their huge heads and tusks would go up and down, sometimes in tandem with the other elephants around. Which was the cue for us to press the shutter release buttons on our cameras. Getting a bit of synchronicity into a wildlife photo can be appealing.
And then the unexpected happened. On that afternoon, Kathy and I each had a camera focused on the elephants. When the shutter release sound on her camera suddenly stopped, I wondered what was going on and looked to my right, where she was seated. She was looking directly at me, wide-eyed and used a small head movement to prompt me to look behind her. I immediately realized what was happening. A huge herd of elephants was in the process of approaching the waterhole from the side where we were parked. They split left and right of the vehicle, streaming past on our right and left, very close by. Hence the interrupted photography. We looked at our Wilderness guide who gave us a thumbs up sign, indicating that all was fine and that we were in no danger.
For a few minutes there, we sat in awe of the huge beasts softly trundling past us in the direction of the water. Almost without a sound – the massive pads on their feet muffling the sounds of their footsteps – they glided right by us with no more than the occasional cautionary glance. In the late afternoon light they were beautifully lit and we could see the finest details on their massive heads and trunks, their gleaming tusks and finely rippled, charcoal grey hides. It was awesome in the old-fashioned sense of the word. I like to think that there was nothing we could have done to have improved on the experience. It was as perfect as an encounter with wild animals could be: the elephants were not displaced or distressed in any way, not scared or disturbed. Which is of course how one ideally wants every interaction with wild animals to go. Spellbinding and fascinating, yet not intrusive or disruptive.
There are a myriad of safari options where one or more of these elephant havens can be included in a thoughtful and practical way. Particularly for a first safari but certainly not exclusively so – we think it is essential to include a really great elephant experience: Amboseli, the Chobe-Linyanti-Selinda corridor, Tsavo East, Mashatu and Hwange all fit the bill. So email Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com to help you figure out a plan for your next trip to do just that. Or call us at
Fish Eagle Safaris Inc. at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222 any time; we will get back to you promptly.
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A Grand Finale: Great Plains Conservation’s Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camps
Big cats high on your list of animals to see on your next or first safari? Then I might suggest that you include the massive Selinda Concession in far northern Botswana in your trip itinerary. When designing an African safari, one always hopes that it will end on a highlight. We spent the last three nights of our early December 2024 safari in two Great Plains Conservation properties – Selinda Explorers and Zarafa Camp. While this was not actually the original plan – the sequence had to be changed due to a booking glitch – we could not have scripted the grand finale any better.
Selinda Explorers Camp
By helicopter it took around 40 minutes to cover the approximately 80 miles from Tawana to Selinda Explorers camp, a tiny tented camp tucked into a riverine forest along the (then) dry Selinda channel. When we stepped out of the helicopter on what was another scorching hot day in northern Botswana, we had seen a lot on our trip to that point. But we had seen neither leopards nor cheetahs. So for those last three nights, our objective was two-fold: find these two (often) elusive members of the big cat family and try to see 111 different bird species in 72 hours. Which qualifies one for membership of Great Plains’ 111 club and scores you a nice cap in the process.
Selinda Explorers feels and is remote. For me personally it is the ideal iteration of a safari property. A truly classic tented camp, Selinda Explorer has three custom designed canvas guest tents and one 2-bedroom family tent. The main area consists of two inviting lounge and dining tents, with the entire camp exuding an atmosphere of warmth and genuine hospitality. A long day out in safari? This place, its people, and the manner in which they treat their guests will have you revived and re-energized in no time whatsoever.
With our guide Esefa behind the wheel, our afternoon drive took us in a westerly direction along the mostly dry Selinda spillway. I don’t believe we were ever out of sight of what turned out to be an abundance of general game including zebra, kudu, tsessebe, buffalo, giraffe and more. And we started to set a good foundation with the bird list with many woodland species.
Our dinner that night at Selinda Explorers was, I think, the most fun and enjoyable of any of our meals on safari. With just the six of us tucked in around a beautifully set table, it was as private as it could be and it felt like and sounded like we were in Africa. An approaching thunderstorm added a note of excitement as rain was on everyone’s mind. We would gladly have been drenched to the bone to see some relief for the wildlife and the environment.
As it turned out the thunderstorm and rain held off until the wee hours of the next morning, and not without some concern on my part as to being safe from lightning. But first, it was time to just enjoy the delicious dinner prepared by the Great Plains chef. Dinners on safari are an opportunity to look back upon the day, recount some interesting or memorable sightings and to appreciate just how special it is to spend another night on safari.
Zarafa Camp
For the last two nights of our Botswana safari, Great Plains Conservation upgraded our party to their Zarafa camp, a deluxe Relais and Chateaux property located in a great spot overlooking the Zibadianja Lagoon. Even after just one night, we had already grown quite fond of Selinda Explorers but the area was still in the grip of a heat wave, so the prospect of airconditioning in the sleeping areas at Zarafa made it an offer we couldn’t turn down.
Highlights of our stay at Zarafa included extraordinarily good big cat viewing, starting with a male leopard on the way in, shortly to be followed by what turned out to be our only cheetah sighting of the entire trip. But first, the leopard sighting. It was an enthralling experience, from beginning to end. To start with, it was a miraculous effort by Esefa to spot the leopard in the first instance, as obscured as it was in a big tree, a good 30 meters or more off the road. Once we approached closer, the leopard twice relocated and each time we got a better view. Initially on a branch in the tree with a decent background (meaning not completely backlit) and then it climbed down. Walking straight towards our vehicle in really good light, the leopard then took a look at a nearby tree and, just meters away from us, clambered straight up. It was so close that we could hear the leopard’s claws scratching on the tree bark.
About 40 minutes after we had been admiring the leopard, we were looking at spots of a different kind, this time watching a sleek cheetah as it made its way across an open area, not far from the Selinda airstrip. The cheetah was not quite as obliging in terms of providing us with photo opportunities, but it didn’t really matter. It was a cheetah and for several persons in our group, the first one they had ever seen. Over the next couple of days we were to enjoy another fascinating sighting of a female leopard who had dragged her baby impala prey into a tree. Also, we were fortunate to bump into 10 more lions, among others, two of the best looking males we’ve seen in a long time, the so-called Army Boys. A big cat bonanza if ever there was one.
Over the course of three days in the Selinda area we racked up 120 different bird species: with extensive wetlands as well as mixed woodland, riverine forest, open floodplain and acacia thickets, the area has significant habitat diversity which is what it takes to support such an abundance of species. Cracking the 111 species mark would not have happened without our guide Esefa’s enthusiasm and expertise. I think he liked chasing the 111 bird target as much as we did!
Zarafa is a property which delivers a superior wilderness experience on many levels. The under-canvas tented rooms are massive and make a few days on safari about as much fun as can be imagined. Chill out in the plunge pool on a hot day, soak away a dusty day on safari in the large tub or take a quick shower indoors or outdoors – my best advice is to do them all. The four huge guest suites consist of a lounge area which flows to a beautiful bedroom and an open layout indoor bathroom with a gas fireplace, shower and claw-foot bath. A hand-crafted Zanzibar door at the entrance sets the right tone: this is not a run-of-the-mill tent by any stretch of the imagination.
Being on safari at a deluxe property like Zarafa is synonymous with being pampered and we certainly were. Get ready for the full treatment: delicious, elaborate and expertly prepared meals, served with panache and elegance. Select a fine wine – bubbly if you prefer – from the sizable private wine cellar, or request your favorite cocktails with or without alcohol. Spend a bit of time at the outdoor gym with expansive views over the Zibadianja lagoon.
Even so, and despite the luxury surroundings, Zarafa is very much in the wilderness and you don’t have to go on a game drive to experience it. One of the best spots in the area is the large deck right in front of camp, overlooking the massive Zibadianja lagoon. At the time of our visit the lagoon was mostly dry, but the remaining water attracted many herds of elephants, which would slowly move into the water from out of the woodlands, quench their thirst and then just as peacefully as they arrived, wander off in another direction. At times there were close to a hundred elephants or more at the same time. Peering through a telescope on the deck, it was possible to pick out the matriarch – the one who keeps things together for the herd – and to take a closer look at the tiny baby elephants, usually seen just a few meters away from an adult female, and often shielded between several of them.
On the morning on which we had to say our reluctant goodbyes at Zarafa, Kathy and I decided to go and have a quick look at the gym – on the extreme left hand side of the camp – and to take a few pictures from there. What we had not reckoned on or planned for was an ‘elephant delay’ which occurred when a solitary bull elephant quietly made his way right up to the gym as we were looking in a different direction. We knew better than to try to dart across in front of him. So we just waited for a few minutes, giving him some space. With one eye on us and very much aware of our presence, the bull elephant moved past the gym from our left to our right and walked away, using the same path which we had used to get to the gym. We sighed a small sigh of relief, looked at each other with raised eyebrows and walked in the steps of the elephant, back to the lodge. Our safari was over.
Our colleague Lyndon has visited several Great Plains properties recently so he is well equipped to answer any questions you may have about combining some of Great Plains’ Reserve Collection or Explorers camps in your safari itinerary. Great Plains have a range of first-class properties in Kenya, Zimbabwe and Botswana. Lyndon can be reached at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com or by calling and leaving a message at 713-467-5222 or 1-800-513-5222.
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A Visit to Tawana Camp, Moremi
Over a splendid alfresco dinner in late 2024 at Natural Selection’s new Moremi jewel – Tawana – the conversation ranged from painted dogs to lion on lion conflict to our trip bird list. It was unseasonably hot (in the grip of a heatwave) so we talked about that and about the lack of rain. All standard safari dinner conversation fodder. Until we started to talk about cork.
Earlier during our stay I had noticed the extensive cork flooring which is a distinct feature of the huge Tawana rooms and massive common areas. The textured – seamless – cork floors are attractive, essentially slip-free and they feel good when walking around barefoot in your room. Which I wouldn’t ordinarily do, but with slightly spongy, soft cork underfoot, I had to try.
It turns out that the cork flooring had a story. We were fortunate to have been joined for dinner by Tawana co-owner Hennie Rawlinson and his talented daughter Jenna. While talking about some of the design features of the lodge (which has the same architect as Natural Selection’s fascinating Shipwreck Lodge in the Skeleton Coast National Park in Namibia), Hennie mentioned that the finely textured cork was applied to the floor in slurry form, somewhat like cement. And, as it turned out, the lodge construction process had a ‘cork delay’ due to construction having to be halted for several weeks. Their South African cork sources had run dry. Additional cork had to be imported from Portugal to complete the process.
When I make it back to Tawana – which I definitely plan to do some day soon – I’ll no doubt inadvertently wonder about the cork underfoot. South African pinotage or Portuguese port? Tawana happens to have a particularly impressive wine cellar so guests have ample opportunities to help accumulate the next batch of cork. They’re going to need it folks, so do your best.
Getting there
One of the guests in our party had Priority Pass access, which got us into the Mack Air private lounge at Kasane Airport. Thank you Carole! For once, we weren’t fussed about the possibility of a delay. Cookies, coffee, sandwiches, samosas, chips – need I say more? As it turned out Mack Air was right on time as we had come to expect from them by then. From Kasane to Khwai Private airstrip took about 50 uneventful minutes in a Cessna Caravan. We did have to cool our heels in a shady spot at the airstrip waiting for a helicopter from Helicopter Horizons to show up. It was flaming hot outside – right around 100 F – so there were some smiles when we started to hear the familiar sound of helicopter blades beating the air into submission. It took just about 40 minutes or so in the Bell Longranger helicopter to reach Tawana. There’s no such thing as a quiet helicopter but with each of us wearing a proper headset, we could listen in to some of the pilot’s communication with air traffic control. Flying relatively low over the terrain, we did spot some elephants en route and there was a herd of them close to the camp on our approach. A big plus point for me when evaluating any safari property? Big animals close to camp on arrival. Check. What gets an even higher score? Big animals on arrival at camp preventing you from getting to your room. Of course.
The camp experience
Tawana is a deluxe property, simply stunning all round with eight huge rooms, an air-conditioned gym and boutique, an air-conditioned wine cellar and there is a small locker in the main area for each room to leave some items behind, instead of lugging them to your room and back every day.
The rooms at Tawana are huge and there’s plenty of outside decking to boot, with a good-sized outside plunge pool, an inside shower and bath, and a proper outside shower with a view. From a distance, the exterior views of the suites are reminiscent of the local thatched Batawana huts. The suites are set in the shade of several huge ebony and sausage trees which help to create a cool, calm environment. Some of the trees are also home to a troop of chacma baboons. If there’s any kind of disturbance at night – such as leopards prowling around – the baboons can be quite noisy and disruptive. So to be sure, have some earplugs ready to shut out any unwarranted baboon noise.
Each room at Tawana has an air cooling unit in the main bedroom portion of the room, right over the bed. The two family rooms have a unit in each bedroom. While it doesn’t cool down the entire room (it would be impractical in a tented environment), the solar operated cooling unit creates ideal sleeping conditions, particularly when the mosquito net is in place, further insulating the space above the bed. In a country like Botswana which has a long hot season – essentially from October through the end of March – having effective air cooling in the sleeping area in a tent makes it possible to take an afternoon nap on a hot summer day. And of course to sleep comfortably at night.
The ultra-spacious communal areas in the camp include an elegant lounge and indoor and outdoor dining spaces. Our party made good use of the walk-in wine cellar and the wood-fired pizza oven, creating our own delicious pizzas one afternoon. The hospitality at Tawana was simply the best. My vegetarian food requirement was handled deftly, which is not always the case with a plant-based preference. Several members of our party took advantage of the spa and wellness treatments and supported the gift shop. Kathy and I took a walk down to the other side of the camp to check out the 52-foot lap pool and the well-equipped gym.
Game viewing in the Moremi
The game viewing in the Tawana area was excellent and with our capable guide Jonas in charge, we experienced many thrilling encounters, notably with lions and African painted dogs. Setting out on a track which meandered alongside the Gomoti river, we were soon reminded why seasoned African travellers speak so highly of the Moremi Game Reserve. Stretching across nearly 1,900 square miles, the Moremi is a magical corner of Botswana renowned for its high concentration of antelope, predators and large herbivores.
Drought conditions at the time – subsequently broken by good rain having fallen – created ideal conditions for wildlife activity and interaction along the Gomoti river. We were not just observing mammals and birds, we were seeing them dealing with and reacting to a situation which constituted an existential threat. The many hippo families in the Gomoti river, for example, had to extend their usual ‘night-time only’ grazing habits right into the daylight hours. Simply because palatable grass sources were scarce close to the river, and they had to walk miles and miles every day just to find enough forage to stay alive. From our very first game drive and for the duration of our stay there, seeing so many hippos out of the water in daylight was a reminder of the harsh reality of surviving in nature.
On two different occasions, we spent time with a large pride of lions (both males and females and several youngsters) and were fortunate to photograph them in good afternoon light. The following afternoon Jonas took us out in search of a coalition of four cheetahs, which had been spotted in the area the previous day. We didn’t find the cheetahs but it didn’t really matter as we came across a large pack of 27 African painted dogs with several puppies around 6 to 8 weeks old. In what was a first for all of us, three or four of the painted dogs were interacting with a young crocodile. Repeatedly darting right up to the inert crocodile, only to swerve away and retreat. Seemingly in an attempt to get the crocodile to turn tail, in which case the painted dogs may have attacked it.
Yet another exciting encounter came the next day when a territorial fracas between two prides of lions erupted into an intruder female lion pursuing and driving off another female. What made it all worse, from our perspective, was watching the reaction of the four subadult offspring of the retreating, defeated lioness. They ran off into the distance and watched the scene unfold, clearly anxious and sensing that this did not bode well for them.
Seeing that he’s just visited Tawana, do get in touch with Bert at bert@fisheaglesafaris.com for up to date information about Tawana and the many other Natural Selection Safaris properties which we can book for you in Botswana. Natural Selections now have an enviable portfolio of safari properties in South Africa, Botswana and Namibia and we know just how to combine some of them in the best possible way. There are some attractive shoulder season offers as well as long-stay incentives. If you prefer, leave us a message at 1-800-513-5222 and we’ll get back to you promptly.
Tawana dining area and exterior suite photos courtesy Tawana
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Revisiting Victoria Falls
Three things stuck with me in the aftermath of our recent two-night stay in Victoria Falls:
The Victoria Falls Hotel
It is impossible to over-romanticize the Victoria Falls Hotel. From the arched name board across the entranceway to the unassuming yet oddly regal front door with its four interior pillars, it takes just a few minutes to enter a completely different world. Stepping back into history is not a cliche here. Move from the front lobby through the central courtyard and onto the back verandah and 120 years disappear in an instant. There, right in front of you in the distance, is the enduring marvel of the famous bridge spanning the Zambezi river border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Looking exactly like it did on the day on which the first general manager of the Vic Falls Hotel – Pierre Gavuzzi – must have gazed upon it when he showed up there in the winter of 1904. Since that day, the venerable old Edwardian property has undergone one complete rebuild and many additions, improvements, refurbishments and restorations. Clearly some good decisions were made along the way as the Victoria Falls Hotel has aged into one of the world’s unquestionably great hotels. To be sure, the grande dame of the Falls looks better every time I see it. In early December last year the property and the gardens were simply sparkling. I’m happy for it and for all the lucky hotel guests who will be spending a day or two there over the next 120 years.
The view of the Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side
My other takeaway following the recent visit? That I had forgotten how impressive the first look at the Victoria Falls can be. I think it was at lookout point #2 as our small group was being escorted to the starting point of the guided tour of the Falls. Which is, predictably, a massive statue of David Livingstone. We stopped at a clearing in the rainforest, looked slightly down and to the right and there it was. A wall of water cascading down the rocks, as vivid and impactful a demonstration of the beauty of nature as anything one could imagine. For at least a minute or two, the spectacle is so awesome, so involving, that most people just look. And stare. And then of course come the iPhones and cameras and other devices, everybody trying – and none truly succeeding – to capture the moment. You absolutely have to be there to truly appreciate it. Right? Right.
A sundowner cruise – and not too many other activities
Thirdly, some advice about activities in the Falls. Every year, there seems to be one or two new activities added to the already long list of things to do. Swimming in the rock pools right underneath the falls? Sounds like a great idea. Or maybe not. The same can be said about jumping into Devil’s Pool, the small natural rock pool right on the edge of the Falls, accessible only when the Zambezi is at low flow stage. As exhilarating an experience as it may be, it is not everybody’s cup of tea.
My best advice for your Vic Falls visit is to not overschedule it, for starters. Leave some time to just explore a bit, poke around in the village and support the local economy with a judicious purchase or two. Better yet, slow down for a cup of coffee at the Lookout Cafe – while enjoying the stupendous views over the Batoka Gorge, left and right. In the same vein, take high tea at the Vic Falls Hotel. Freshly baked scones with strawberry jam and delicate cucumber sandwiches with an endless cup of Earl Grey tea? Why not. All while training your binoculars on the people bungee jumping off the bridge. The view is priceless and the people watching on the verandah never disappoint. Just remember they’re looking at you too. It’s a spot where you can simply let time wash over you, slipping back into a simpler, more genteel era when the ‘news’ from England was at best two months old when it reached this former outpost of the empire.
There are a couple things you’d want to schedule in Vic Falls though. The previously mentioned tour of the Falls being one of them. Of course the Falls are at their most impressive when the water in the Zambezi is at flood stage, so if you happen to be there around February to May, get ready for a truly awesome experience. Even so, a visit during the low-water season from around September through November is still worthwhile. Our recent early December visit was a case in point. On some of our previous visits many of the views were obscured by incessant spray and foam. This time around, with the Zambezi just starting to come up from its lowest flow stage, the visibility was excellent and it was possible to get some nice exposures from most of the viewpoints. With our Wild Horizons guide Sorro (he was a jewel) leading the way, I think every one of us enjoyed the stroll along the falls, all the way out to the spot from where we watched the daredevils cavorting in Devil’s Pool. The path along the Falls is quite flat and accessible – we saw at least one person in a wheelchair – but be sure to wear sturdy walking or running shoes or something similar. There are many uneven spots and loose-fitting sandals or flipflops are just not going to hack it. For the kids, yes. For the rest of us, no.
Another activity which we would suggest pre-scheduling is an afternoon jet boat sundowner cruise on the Zambezi. There are many options but for our guests, we book the premium Bushtracks cruise. For a little bit more money, there’s a big payoff. A small, comfortable boat with a competent skipper, not too many other guests and the seating done in lounge style with plush chairs and small couches and tables, and plenty of room. In addition to the skipper, there’s a waiter and chef on board, with several warm canapés being freshly prepared and served as you slowly traverse the waters of the Zambezi. The major advantage of the jet boat vessel being that it can negotiate shallower water than most of the other larger propeller-driven boats.
And why a sundowner cruise, one might ask? Seeing the sun set over the Zambezi – even when it is partially obscured by clouds like it was on the most recent excursion – is always a highlight of a visit to the area. Being out on the Zambezi in a small boat amplifies the size and the impact of the river. It is massive – a veritable juggernaut bearing down on the Falls which are a couple of miles or so down-river. At about the half mile point from the Falls the cruise turns around, heading back upstream to the mooring point. Predictably, we did see some hippos, a couple of not so impressive crocodiles (go to nearby Chobe for the big monsters), several good birds, and as a bonus – an elephant swimming across the Zambezi, from Zimbabwe to Zambia.
If you overlook the presence of the other boats – at certain times of the year there will be quite a few – a sundowner cruise is a peaceful, relaxing outing in a beautiful natural setting. There is no rush to get anywhere, no deadline other than to be stationary somewhere the moment the softly glowing sun seemingly dips into the water of the Zambezi and then disappears. As you’ll soon find out on an Africa trip, the sunsets often get better and better beyond the actual sun setting moment. The sky becomes suffused with a golden, sometimes reddish or pinkish glow which is at its best as much as 20 minutes or so after sunset. And then, suddenly, it’s dark.
Pioneers Lodge
This time around, we spent two nights in Vic Falls at Pioneers lodge, a well-run guest lodge with its 50 rooms built around a large courtyard, facing in towards an attractive garden area with two pools, one of which is elevated on a different level. There were quite a few bird species skulking around the lush garden, some of them probably attracted by the nicely done waterfall feature. A bonus was the presence of two young fulvous whistling ducks, who apparently like to get into the pool with visitors. We didn’t mind. They are beautiful.
Located in a quiet neighborhood a couple of miles or so from the Falls, Pioneers Lodge and its sister property Batonka Lodge offer quality air-conditioned accommodation, well-prepared meals and lots of space in the terrace, bar and restaurant areas. The Wifi was pretty decent and we all spent a bit of time catching up on email or TikTok or whatever on our cellphones.
In addition to our tour of the Falls and the sundowner cruise, we took a cab (organized by the lodge) to the Vic Falls Hotel, walking from there to the Three Monkeys restaurant for pizza. To say that I was more than mildly surprised by the quality of the pizza – and how quickly it was turned out – would be an understatement. At US$11 and $15 respectively, the large wood-fired thin-crust Margeritha and Quattro Formaggio pan pies were not inexpensive but worth every cent.
With daily flights from the Victoria Falls area to Nairobi in Kenya, and vice versa, it is now easier than ever before to include a few days in Vic Falls with a Kenya safari. For more information about that, please get in touch with Jason at jason@fisheaglesafaris.com or leave a message with our answering service – any time of the day – at 1-800-513-5222 or 713-467-5222.
Sunset cruise photo courtesy Bushtracks
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Back to Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Late one morning, early in our December 2024 Zimbabwe safari, we spotted a small breeding herd of elephants enjoying the shade and the foraging opportunities in the interior of a beautiful teak forest in the far southern area of Hwange National Park. “Feel like taking a walk to get a little closer to them?,” Camelthorn camp head guide Vusa Ncube asked. It was unanimous. Not five minutes later we were out of the Landcruiser and on the forest floor, quietly making our way in single file towards the elephants. Vusa was leading the way, rifle in hand, every now and then checking the direction of the wind by shaking a small bag filled with leadwood ash. Even an untrained observer could see that we were walking directly upwind, to prevent our scent from reaching the elephants’ super sensitive smell detection organ. These gigantic lumbering mammals have the strongest sense of smell of any animal. Twice as good as the best bloodhound out there, and five times better than the world’s top sommeliers.
Remaining undetected (the elephants’ eyesight not being good at all), we approached to within 20 meters or so, keeping our bodies mostly hidden behind vegetation and tree trunks. Even for seasoned safari pros like Kathy and myself it was an exhilarating moment. For the other guests – on just their second day of being in the African wilderness – it was a highlight of their entire stay, I am sure.
Standing there quietly observing the elephants tearing off huge chunks of vegetation with their prehensile trunks, over and over again, hearing them communicating with each other in soft rumbles while flapping their massive ears to dissipate the heat, took us right out of our element. Into theirs. We were on foot in ‘Big Five’ terrain. Vulnerable and exposed. As close to nature as we might ever be. For just a few minutes there we were in the footsteps of our ancestors, feeling exactly what they would have felt. A little bit of fear, a lot of respect and a palpable sense of being one with the natural environment.
On the way back to the vehicle a young elephant bull appeared as if out of nowhere from stage left and for a minute or two – particularly when it looked as if the animal had picked up our scent – our hearts beat in our throats. All ended well and we lived to tell the tale. Our ancestors would have been proud. And I’m sure they would have been envious of our sturdy footwear and our nifty Swarovski binoculars.
Spending four days at Camelthorn Lodge in the southern Hwange area early last December underscored a lot of what we’ve been telling prospective visitors over the years. And then some. There are just so many reasons to include Hwange in a southern African safari.
Here are a few:
The elephants
Particularly for first time visitors, no African safari is complete and satisfying without a truly rewarding elephant experience. By that I mean more than just observing a few elephants standing around browsing or trundling through a forest. I mean a ‘blow your socks off, bring the house down’ type of elephant experience. Like seeing dozens or even hundreds of elephants in one area, ideally coming to water close to a spot from where you can observe them safely.
Hwange National Park is just such a place. The park and surrounding areas are home to around 45,000 elephants, all coming to the water regularly in the dry months. Even in the early December time frame – when many of them typically disperse after the first rains – we enjoyed several opportunities to observe elephants close up. The most memorable occasion being sitting in a sunken hide at Stoffies Pan, waiting for the elephants to come to us. A pleasant change from bumping around on a game drive. We had hardly taken up our positions in the sunken hide by late morning before a small breeding herd of elephants approached rapidly from the left.
It got really quiet really fast inside the blind as the elephants got closer and closer. We practically held our collective breath as the herd stopped near the point where the clean, fresh borehole water emerged. Using their trunks, they sucked up the fresh water by the trunkful, guzzling as much as 40 gallons in less than 5 minutes. An elephant drinking is quite the spectacle. It’s all action and noise, with several moving parts – and invariably ends with the elephant blowing bubbles or amusing itself by squirting water around when it has had its fill. The young elephants are even more entertaining as they frolic and push each other around. On this occasion a couple of young bulls rushed into and out of the water just like your average teenage boys might do, literally trying to make waves and attract attention.
Stoffies hide provides jaw-droppingly close and intimate looks at elephants coming to water and it is a spot where you will definitely want to spend some time while visiting Hwange in the dry season from about May through October. The borehole and pump supplying Stoffies pan were recently upgraded and it now holds more water than ever before, even right into the teeth of the dry season.
To be sure, elephants are not the only animals showing up to drink at the Hwange waterholes. Over the course of the few days we spent in Hwange this time around we saw a sable antelope, several buffaloes, a rare side-striped jackal, giraffes, impalas and a multitude of bird species come to the water. The elephants almost always steal the show, but the other visitors and the resident hippos keep things interesting. Literally never a dull moment.
The guiding
The guiding in Hwange and elsewhere in Zimbabwe is among the best in Africa with the Zimbabwe professional guiding licence setting the gold standard for the rest of the continent. So you will be with guides who have had as much as seven years of in-depth instruction and learning under the supervision of a seasoned mentor. The Zimbabwe guides are superb all-round naturalists and because of their intensive qualification process they are permitted to walk with guests inside of the national parks. In many other parts of Africa the opportunities to walk inside national parks are limited by the availability of qualified walking guides and national parks rangers.
We were fortunate to work with both Camelthorn head guide Vusa Ncube and his guide training mentor Mark (‘call me Butch’) Butcher, Imvelo’s Managing Director. Vusa is an ebullient, knowledgeable guide and clearly an all round good guy. With him around, we felt safe and cared for from the word go. Even when we ventured out of the vehicle to take a closer peek at the elephants browsing, we could tell that Vusa was not going to get us into a potentially dangerous situation unnecessarily. Sometimes the unexpected can happen but when you are out on foot with a ‘full pro’ Zimbabwe guide you can rely on their experience and their knowledge of animal behavior to keep you safe.
The big cats and more
Beyond the elephants, the many giraffes, eland, zebra and other plains game and amazing bird life, when you find yourself in Hwange there is always a chance to see one or more special mammals such as lions, African painted dogs, cheetahs, and two unique species of antelope, sable and roan. These animals can be seen elsewhere but Hwange is one of the best places for sable and roan, and it’s a good bet for the painted dogs and cheetah as well.
Lions are regularly seen in Hwange. This time around, we would cross paths several times with a pride of 10 lions with 7 youngsters of several litters. On our very first outing, the three females were in a hunting mode, targeting some wildebeest. It was fascinating to see the females skulking about, alert as could be, with one of them being pre-positioned to ambush one of the wildebeest should they inadvertently venture too close. Unfortunately it did not pan out with the wildebeest either smelling or seeing one of the lions and taking off into thicker bush. We were as disappointed as the lions must have been.
We found the lions again later in the day and I managed a few good exposures of three or four of the cubs bunched together at the base of a termite mound with a tree log positioned right in front of it. I just knew one or more of them would get on it, and bingo… The following day we found a solitary female lion in an open area where – for a minute there – she thought she had a chance to take down some wildebeest. The wildebeest spotted her soon enough but she then proceeded to position herself nicely on a termite mound. The photographer in me would have preferred a chase sequence, but happily settled for a nice profile shot.
The white rhinos
If you spend time at Imvelo’s Camelthorn or Bomani camps, there’s an added bonus to being in Hwange: an included visit to the Ngamo Community Rhino Conservation Initiative (CRCI). This project places local communities at the heart of the conservation effort and engages them as rhino custodians. Already, the revenue from guests visiting the sanctuary is directly benefiting the community, such as by funding a health clinic.
When visiting the Rhino Sanctuary guests are allowed to and in fact encouraged to approach the two adult white rhinos on foot. An awesome experience. During our visit, we also observed two anti-poaching demonstrations. The first one involved Ragnar, a Belgian Malinois who was only too keen to run down a volunteer perpetrator wearing a protective sleeve. We also observed and participated in a simulated ‘jungle lane’ search and engage mission. With a crack squad of anti-poaching personnel engaging in a rapid pursuit scenario, briefly pausing to aim and hit pop-up targets, using a .22 caliber rifle. The accuracy and precision were impressive. Guests are welcome to participate in this activity to the degree they feel comfortable with; two of our party tried their marksmanship with some success!
Observing the gargantuan white rhinos – who weigh up to 5,000 pounds and more – at close range, on foot, supercharges their prehistoric appearance. One has to wonder how it is even possible for something so massive and cumbersome, so seemingly helpless, to continue to survive in an avaricious world where its horn has been imbued with spurious benefits. Sadly we may very well be the last generation to see rhino in the wild in more than just a few highly protected pockets.
A sense of community
From Camelthorn and Bomani – and also from the Wilderness properties in southern Hwange – you can do a 2-hr visit (in between game drives) to Ngamo village, for a meaningful yet relaxing cultural experience. You can spend a bit of time chatting with Johnson Ncube, the headman, who will show you around, likely invite you into his home and time permitting (if the school is in session) you could have a peek into a classroom. I found it to be a good ‘slice of life’ experience, and it didn’t feel forced in any way. A highlight was walking to school – or at least part of the way – with a few of the kids. Instant friends.
Camelthorn Lodge – where we spent several nights – is definitely in need of some sprucing up; we were happy to see someone on site, getting that project started. The brick & mortar rooms are quite big and comfortable, the food is perfectly fine and tasty and the staff, starting with effervescent camp manager Siboe Sibanda, is keen to make your stay as nice as it can be. I quite like the paths between the rooms which wind their way through a dense forest. In the summer heat it was quite a workout walking from one end of the property to the other and back, repeatedly, while keeping an eye out for white rhinos.
Prospective visitors beware: Hwange is a land of extremes. As brutally hot as this area can get in October (and through early December as we found out, getting there just as a heatwave set in), temperatures can drop to near freezing in mid-winter months like June and July. Prepare accordingly.
Getting there
On startup it sounds like an overgrown Harley Davidson motorbike. Getting into and out of it is a bit of an adventure. The luggage compartment is barely 10 inches high and holds about as much as a good sized wheelbarrow. I’m talking of course about the Cessna 206 Stationair which unexpectedly turned out to be our mode of conveyance for the one hour flight from Victoria Falls to Camelthorn camp in Hwange.
It has been a while since Kathy and I had flown in a 206 but it started to feel quite familiar, quite soon. The noisy take-off, feeling the power of the 310 horsepower Lycoming engine and a slow ascent to around 7600 feet above sea level where we spent the next 55 minutes or so. We reached a respectable maximum cruising speed over 150 mph, maybe touching 185 on the slow descent into the Bomani Airstrip. All in all a fun ride.
If you have misgivings about tiny planes, fear not; light air transfers from Victoria Falls to Hwange are usually done in the bigger (12-seater) Cessna 208 Caravan. The work-horse of the safari industry in Africa, this single turboprop aircraft is ideal for flight-seeing with its underwing fuselage and its ability to easily negotiate short take-offs and landings on rough bush strips.
Hwange can also be reached by road on a 3-hour plus road transfer on a road which is not nearly as good as it used to be. It is also heavily used by big trucks, so best avoided. We do recommend including a ride on Imvelo’s Elephant Express rail service along one of the longest straight stretches of track in the world, if transferring from one of Imvelo’s southern Hwange properties (Bomani and Camelthorn) to their property in the north-central part of the park, Nehimba. Best done under cool weather conditions, the open rail car serves as a pretty good mobile game-viewing platform with species such as elephants and giraffes seen regularly, together with several antelopes and the occasional predator. Definitely a fun time for the kids!
For suggestions on how to include one or more Hwange camps in your Southern Africa itinerary – and to learn more about the best time of the year for the area – email Lyndon at lyndon@fisheaglesafaris.com. We can also be reached by phone at 713-467-5222. Leave a message with the answering service and one of us will call you back.
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