Photo Journal
Savute Safari Lodge, Botswana
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Savute Safari Lodge, Botswana
If you were to look at a time-lapse photography sequence taken from Savute Safari Lodge between 2008 and the present, the one thing that will stand out – other than the passing parade of animals, day and night – will be the state of the Savuti Channel, a natural spillway which starts at the Zibadianja Lagoon and ends in the Savute Marsh.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Back in 2008 there was an artificially maintained waterhole in front of the camp and nothing else. At the time the Savuti Channel had reverted to being an ephemeral river or linear oasis – the kind of river which occasionally collects some water from local runoff with a few pools here and there, and some spots where elephants could get their trunks into clean water just below the surface of the sand. The water hole in front of camp was a hive of activity, particularly in the dry season.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
By 2009 – for reasons that are still not entirely clear but likely the result of a heavier rainfall pattern over several years – also known as a wet cycle – the Savute Channel had started to flow strongly again and at least for a while the presence or absence of waterholes such as the one at Savute Lodge did not matter one way or another. There was water all along the channel from its source close to the Zibadianja Lagoon, all the way to the Savuti Marsh.
At least initially this made game-viewing in the area more challenging because it created more dispersal of big game species such as elephants and buffalo who did not ‘have’ to come to the few remaining waterholes in the dry season – they had access to water pretty much anywhere.
By the time we got back to Savute late in 2014, the Savute Channel was still flowing but not very strongly – and the elephants were back at the original waterhole in big numbers, trying to get to the source of the fresh water which they prefer to the muddy stuff available elsewhere in the channel.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Right now – as our colleague Lyndon saw on a visit to Savute Safari Camp about 10 days ago – the Savute Channel is dry again with no water flowing at all. There are pumped waterholes, but other than that no permanent water. Which means it has come full circle, all the way back to what it was like, 13 years ago. The elephants frequenting the water hole in front of the camp on a daily basis are also back to stay, with the water hole being one of the few permanent and reliable sources of water in a huge area.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Savute Safari Camp had seen other changes as well over the last few years. Extensive refurbishments had been undertaken in the main public areas. The objective was to make the best use of the space in front of the Savute channel and the active waterhole. The new facilities include a relocated swimming pool – now more private than before – new walkways, multiple dining locations and new deck areas with a live cooking area for brunches and dinner.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
The camp now has multiple leveled viewing decks connected by walkways, providing different vantage points over the waterhole so that guests can find their own space to enjoy bar service and admire the remarkable animal encounters that take place around the channel and water hole. The rooms/chalets at Savute Safari Lodge have been significantly upgraded as well.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
The chalets are elegantly furnished in neutral tones to blend with the natural environment, feature expansive private decks, a combined bedroom and lounge area and en suite facilities. The lodge can accommodate twenty four guests in eleven thatched chalets built of local timber and one family room which consists of two double bedrooms.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Savute Safari Lodge offers an exceedingly comfortable stay at a reasonable price, and the management and staff are most welcoming and helpful. On my most recent visit, everyone made a point of introducing him or herself and maintained a high degree of interaction with all the guests for the duration of their stay.
The grounds of Savute Safari Lodge are well maintained with good walkways and borders and several natural patches, resulting in an abundance of birdlife and small mammals such as dwarf and slender tailed mongoose and tree squirrels.
Legendary Lodge
Here is what Lyndon had to say at the conclusion of his recent (July 2021) stay at Savute Safari Lodge:
“Shortly after a buffet brunch we headed out in search of the Marsh Pride (lions) with our guides Metal and Isaac. Although the drive was quiet on the way out, we were amply rewarded with a sighting of almost 20 lions lying in the shade of a tree. This pride has been dominated by a couple of huge brothers for the past 12 years, longer than most wild lions’ lifespan. Several wildlife documentaries have featured them and their hunting prowess. They had recently taken down a wildebeest and were still resting up; it was not yet time to venture out again. Even so, it was a rewarding experience to see such an abundance of lions in one place!
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Dinner was on the deck overlooking the channel, where the water hole is lit up at night. We enjoyed a meal with some delicious mashed sweet potato, broccoli, assorted vegetables and kudu steak as well as sticky toffee pudding for dessert. It is shocking how quickly it can cool down in the evening and after dinner it became properly cold, right away. Our group enjoyed some drinks around a bonfire before heading to bed.
Our final morning drive was frigid but I actually prefer it that way. Nothing better than to wake you up after a deep African slumber than a cold, cold wind blowing in your face as you set out on a game drive. Layer up, grab a blanket and perhaps a heated water bottle like the ones they provide at Savute and enjoy!
We took a small detour to a rocky outcropping which is home to an old San/bushman cave. There are some beautiful rock paintings just outside the cave. Visitors need to take note that the path is steep and rocky in some parts, albeit quite short. Our game drive was successful again with us witnessing a brilliant roaring display by a striking male lion.
One thing that I have noticed that has changed during Covid is that you no longer get the large spread of snacks as was traditional at a point during your morning game drive (tea/coffee break) or in the late afternoon for sundowners. Instead each guest is given their portion in a small paper sack. It typically includes all the ingredients you would need to make your own tea, coffee or chocolate milk and often includes some snacks. I do miss the old way of doing this and I am hopeful that someday we will be able to return to that. In the meantime I think everyone is now used to these small sacrifices and it shouldnt detract from the overall experience.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
While I am on the subject, the mask protocol, for the most part, is as follows: In camp I wear a mask in public/main areas unless I am eating or having a drink. In your room and on a game drive it is fine to go without. On light air transfers and inside any airport terminals, I wear it.”
On my own most recent trip to Savute Safari Lodge, it soon became evident that we had happened upon a once-in-a-life time wilderness experience where the game-viewing was elevated to an almost surreal, hyper level. Never before had we seen such a high density of elephants spread out in such a large area. Not at Amboseli, not at Hwange, not at Chobe and not at Kruger Park. The number of large bull elephants roaming around the Savute Marsh on this trip was simply astonishing, and there were dozens of large breeding herds around every corner.
This was on an early December trip, just after the first rains had fallen. Our driver-guide had to take evasive action all the time, either driving off road to avoid the lumbering animals, or stopping and waiting for them to cross. In 30 years of going on safari, this still ranks in the ‘top three’ of our ultimate elephant experiences, the other two being at Little Makalolo in early November one year and at Amboseli in June. It was a confluence of factors which we realize is unlikely to happen again. Possibly there was inadequate vegetation available in the Linyanti area with earlier rain creating ideal grazing conditions in and around the marsh itself. For whatever reason it seemed like every last elephant in Northern Botswana was in Savute that week.
What made the entire experience even more special, was the presence of so many other animals. There were zebras moving into the fringes of the marsh in their tens and hundreds, kudu of all sizes and ages around everywhere, hundreds of impala with multiple hundreds of babies, many giraffes, plus good numbers of wildebeest and even a few roan antelope.
On top of that we also found ourselves right in the middle of a massive herd of buffalo on the final afternoon, moving in the direction of a watering hole. A while later, we relocated to a different spot where two lionesses were watching the approaching buffalo herd, seemingly weighing up the odds of making a successful attempt at bringing one down. Ultimately they decided not to, which was a wise decision as they were totally outnumbered and would have been no match for the many large, powerful buffalo bulls at the waterhole.
The game-viewing at Savute Safari Lodge did not stop at hundreds of elephant, zebra and other plains game. We had previously – on an all-day trip from Ghoha Hills – seen the Marsh Pride on the edge of the marsh. On the day of our arrival at Savute Safari Lodge we went back to take a look at them and they were still in the same spot in the marsh, about 20 meters or so off the road.
The following morning we were on our way back to the marsh when our guide received word of the presence of a pack of African Painted Dogs near the Rock Painting site. We promptly drove there, missed them on the first attempt and then enjoyed a very good – albeit brief – view of 5 or so of the animals moving from our right to left and eventually disappearing into the thick bush.
Just minutes later we were looking at a trio of mating leopards. Usually leopards are found either by themselves or in a mating pair. Or sometimes a female with youngsters. This was an exception as an older male leopard was vying for the attention of a female who had paired up with a younger, more energetic male. At first the older leopard was just resting up on a rock ledge but eventually he got into the action as well, displacing the young male towards the latter stages of the encounter.
Driving around the edges of the marsh, our vehicle was followed by several carmine bee-eaters, intent on catching the insects stirred up by our activities. In the process I managed a few decent pics of these colorful birds in flight – always something to behold. Beautiful birds in flight, something to look forward to when planning a visit to Savute Safari Lodge – and the Savute Marsh.
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
Duba Explorers & Duba Plains Camp, Botswana DUBA EXPLORERS CAMP
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Duba Explorers & Duba Plains Camp, Botswana
DUBA EXPLORERS CAMP
Great Plains’ Duba Explorers Camp is located in the northern part of the Okavango Delta in Botswana. After a 45 minute flight from Maun, the gateway to the Delta, Fish Eagle Safaris’ Lyndon and his wife Christine arrived at the airstrip in early July this year. Due to the road to the camp being inaccessible as a result of high water, they transferred to camp by helicopter, in just five minutes.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Duba Explorers is a lovely camp with a fantastic view over a large floodplain which is typically occupied by various antelope species, baboons and elephants. On arrival we were able to spot one of three resident Pel’s Fishing Owls. These enigmatic large brown nocturnal birds are much sought after by keen bird-watchers. The rooms at Duba Explorer are a perfect size with plenty of space made possible by what appears to be tent extensions for the shower and toilet sections. Stylistically it is very ‘Africa’. The rugs are a great touch and very handy during the cold winter months.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Shortly afterwards, we met our guide, J.R. Easy enough of a name to remember, especially for a Texan. J.R. was knowledgeable and very personable. A real hoot in fact. The camp management and staff were all top notch as well. Although it is a mixed activity camp with both water and land activities available, there is a surprisingly large area available for game drives. It was obvious that game was plentiful but it was tough to find some of the predators due to a lot of tall grass and foliage. We did get an absolutely fantastic view of some African painted dogs and their ten young puppies. They tend to den during the months of June and July so our timing was quite good. We also had a pleasant mokoro ride just next to camp. Very peaceful and relaxing and we got a decent look at a jewel-like malachite kingfisher.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
The meals at Duba Explorer were simply delicious. Francois, the head chef, met with us before our evening activities to tell us about the dinner menu and to let us make our entree choices. On the first night we had butternut soup, lamb, and a fruit sorbet. Despite current Covid regulations prohibiting the sale and consumption of alcohol, the camp was able to move our dinner table to a non-public area so that we could enjoy a glass of wine or mixed drink, should we desire it.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
On subsequent game drives, we saw plentiful general game including elephants, impala, kudu, warthogs and countless species of birds. The strengths of this camp are its beautiful location, design of the main area and tents, attentive staff and management and great guiding.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
DUBA PLAINS CAMP
From Explorers it was about a 40 minute boat transfer to Duba Plains Camp. A malachite kingfisher seemed to be just in front of our boat for a good portion of the trip. We said our goodbyes to J.R. and met our new guide Mots who took us from the boat dock the rest of the way to camp.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
It was evident quite early on that Duba Plains is quite a grand camp. The main area sprawls with several large, interconnected tented rooms. There is a library, couches and furniture, a photography room, an interactive kitchen area, and a large deck overlooking a floodplain. One feature of the camp is that each room is assigned a professional quality Canon camera with a 100-400 mm zoom lens which guests can use if they so desire. Whatever pictures you take are uploaded to a memory stick to be taken with you at the end of your stay.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Before heading to our room we enjoyed brunch in the main area. At Duba we had a 6:00 am wake up call and left camp by 6:30 with a packed breakfast so brunch is served upon returning to camp. Brunch consisted of four different salads and a protein. We had a quinoa salad, beet salad, green salad and an Indian salad along with grilled chicken breasts. It was the first of many excellent meals from the talented staff.
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
The rooms really wowed us with their decor, amenities and sheer size. The ceilings are elevated and the room is actually built on several levels. At the entrance are huge wooden doors kept shut with a chain link from either the inside or outside. There is an extensive mini bar, tea and coffee station, plunge pool and outdoor sala, wardrobe area, large copper sinks and bathtub, indoor and outdoor shower, and a separate toilet. Very impressive!
Legendary Lodge
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Game drives are done on the camp’s sole use concession, Duba Island. It takes a little while to get there as you must first cross a long wooden bridge and then navigate several long stretches of high water. The 6-cylinder diesel Toyota Land Cruisers are totally in their element here and capable of handling anything that is thrown at them.
Once you are on the island the game-viewing is, frankly, spectacular We saw an African rock python, a sleeping pride of about eight lions, another solitary male lion, a pack of African painted dogs barking at the lion to distract it from their nearby den, numerous rhinos, a civet, and countless antelope. Mainly red lechwes and tsessebe. And this was just during our first game drive! Rhinos were reintroduced on the island and by the looks of it have been very successful. They – along with the innumerable antelopes and herds of buffalo – keep the grass nicely ‘mowed’ which helps with the game-viewing.
Highlights from the rest of our stay include several more lions including seeing some feeding on a recent kill, many more rhinos, large herds of buffalo, and getting to follow a pack of four painted dogs (who had very young pups which we were able to see) during a hunt that lasted the better part of an evening. They were unsuccessful but what a thrill!
Photo – Great Plains Conservation
Dinner is served in courses and you will be asked before departing on your evening activity, about your choice of entree. Typically it will be a choice between red meat, white meat or vegan/vegetarian. If you choose meat you will get the vegetarian option on the side. Meals begin with soup and fresh bread. On our first night it was a tomato and carrot soup, beef fillet, and gingerbread cake dessert. It was truly fine dining. I appreciated that they kept the portions to a manageable size. We did not have a meal we didn’t love.
Our guide Mots was an absolute pro. He had surmised from a warning call that there may be a snake around and spotted it literally less than one minute later. He positioned us well for photography and masterfully followed the dogs on their hunt. Very personable and a great sense of humor. The staff back at camp was incredibly attentive and really made our stay feel special. They set up a dinner in the outdoor sala at our room and were a joy during our stay. The game viewing was so spectacular that even without everything else being so top notch, it would be a ‘must visit’ camp. When you pair it with excellence across the board it is a no-brainer. A worthy new addition to our Groundhog Day list of properties!”
NOTES FROM EARLIER TRIPS TO DUBA PLAINS
I fondly recall a couple of earlier visits to Duba, which we first started to visit in 2008. The memories of several game drives are still quite vivid. One afternoon drive started on a promising note when we spotted what would turn out to be our only Wattled Cranes of that trip to Botswana. Striking and unmistakable, they strutted around the edge of the incoming water, keeping a wary eye on us. Wattled cranes are extremely sensitive to any disturbance while nesting, which has resulted in these birds practically disappearing from much of their former range in Southern Africa, the Okavango Delta being a notable exception.
Almost immediately after our stop for sundowners, the tenor of the drive changed completely and within a couple of hours it turned into one of the best night-drives we had ever experienced. One after the other we started seeing some of the most elusive nocturnal animals, including Bateared Fox, Side-striped Jackal, Aardwolf, Civet, Porcupine with young ones, and African wild cat. We could not believe our luck. At one stage a couple of very vocal Spotted Hyenas ambled past us and our guide did not hesitate for a second, swinging the Land Rover around and bouncing off after the fast disappearing animals.
When we finally caught up with them, they had disappeared into a thicket, and all we could do was to sit and wait on its edge, trying to imagine what was happening in there. The unearthly whoops, growls, giggles and yells emanating from the bush were fodder for the imagination. The loud alarm snorts and distress calls of a buffalo completed the picture. A solitary buffalo must have been fighting off several hungry hyenas and we expected the bloodied animal to come crashing out of the undergrowth at any moment. Unfortunately, the encounter would remain an imaginary one for us as we had to leave the animals in the bush. Pangs of hunger affect not only hyenas – we had our own dinner appointment!
On a later visit, we realized that Duba had undergone a complete transformation. Visitors from earlier years may remember that buffalo herds used to be located by the pall of dust which they kicked up – not any more! Duba Plains is nowadays a much wetter camp and the vehicles spend a great deal of time ‘swimming’ on game drives. On that trip, our best sighting of lions was early one morning when they were well-positioned around a woodpile, in intermittently good light. Even though there was a little rain falling at the time, it did not hamper the photography.
The following day, we found the lions just as they were crossing the water into an unreachable spot. We turned around, and used a different route through a watery expanse where likely nobody but our guide could even attempt to find his way. Sure enough, about 20 minutes or so later, we were perfectly positioned just as the female lion and her cubs sloshed by us, wet and bedraggled and shaking their skins just like dogs would do. Our guide’s ability to anticipate and predict the lions’ behavior and movement was nothing short of uncanny. Actually it was remarkable!
Photo: Desert & Delta Safaris
The Big Cats of Mashatu, Botswana
The Big Cats of Mashatu, Botswana
Where in Africa can you go on safari and over the course of three or four days be practically assured of seeing lions, leopards and cheetahs?
The Serengeti-Mara ecosystem in Tanzania and Kenya? Possibly – but there’s always a chance of dipping out on leopards which are scarce in mostly open grassveld habitat.
The north-eastern lowveld areas of South Africa including the Kruger National Park and adjacent private game reserves? Yes, but you’d have to get lucky with cheetahs as they tend to avoid the densely wooded and thickets typical of this part of Africa.
Northern Botswana’s Okavango Delta, Chobe and Moremi areas? With luck yes but again you may come up short on at least one of the species. Cheetahs are not common at all in Northern Botswana and even lions are thinly spread in some areas.
A complicating factor for photographers in all three of these areas? Off-road driving is not permitted in vast portions of the Serengeti, Masai Mara, South Africa’s Kruger Park and Botswana’s national parks.
Your best bet for a big cat bonanza? Mashatu Game Reserve in south-eastern Botswana, particularly in the dry season from about July through October. Looking back over my photo albums from recent trips to Mashatu, they all have one thing in common: lots of good, close-up photos of lions, leopards and cheetahs. All three. Every time. With off-road and night drives allowed, visitors and photographers have the opportunity to approach the cats relatively closely during the day (such as for the diurnal cheetahs) and to observe lions and leopards at night, when they are hunting.
Lions, leopards and cheetahs are seen on the Mashatu Game reserve just about every day of the year. Even in a month like March when cat sightings can be difficult elsewhere due to thick vegetation. Mashatu delivered big-time last March with an average of 5 different cheetahs being seen every day. Leopards are not easy to see anywhere, but at Mashatu you can pretty much bank on it, particularly during the dry winter months. In addition to lion, leopard, cheetah, other predator species such as Black-backed jackal, African wildcat, bat-eared fox and spotted hyena are seen daily on Mashatu. The brown hyena are more shy, yet still seen frequently.
How did Mashatu become such a big cat paradise? According to Mashatu Research Director Dr. Andrei Snyman, it is the result of extensive conservation efforts. Through eco-tourism, rather than hunting, a sanctuary was created where animal populations could grow with minimal human interference. The reserve is unfenced which means that animals are free to follow their natural movement patterns. About 30 years ago, there were hardly any leopard, almost no cheetah and very few lions at Mashatu. Thirty years of sustained conservation practices have resulted in a massive increase in their populations.
Leopards
When photographers visualize the quintessential Mashatu photograph, they see a leopard draped in the branches of a giant Mashatu Tree. So it is not surprising that when the Mashatu guides are out tracking leopards, they peer into the treetops of every Mashatu Tree they pass. Ever so often, there will be a rosetted cat snoozing above. Leopards love Mashatu trees for their large size, rigid branches and plentiful shade. The perfect spot for a midday nap.
The Leopards of Mashatu are incredibly creative when it comes to finding suitable spots to hide their young. It could be a clump of old branches, a rocky outcrop or in very thick bush near a riverbed. Fortunately, the cats are so relaxed around the safari vehicles, that they invariably lead the Mashatu guides to their den sites. Watching leopard cubs interact, without any fear of the vehicles, is something truly special.
Cheetahs
Mashatu’s cheetah population is incredibly healthy and cheetahs are seen every single day by guests. In 2018 alone, there were 14 new cubs born. One of the reasons for their success is the wide-open terrain of Mashatu.
They are able to chase down prey during the hunt, and easily reach their top speed, without having to dodge too many trees and shrubs. Guests generally see 2-4 cheetahs together comprising either a male coalition or mother and her cubs.
LIONs
According to Andrei Snyman, Ph.D. who heads up Mashatu’s Research, the reserve’s current lion population constitutes roughly 65% of the estimated maximum carrying capacity. Their ecosystem is unfenced, which means that the lions are not restricted within Mashatu and the Northern Tuli Game Reserve. Only time will tell if the population within the reserve will increase, or if lions will disperse into neighbouring protected areas. Dr. Snyman pointed out that male lions, when defeated, have to move to find another territory. This emigration has generally resulted in the fluctuation of the lion population in Mashatu over the years.
What is important to note, says Dr. Snyman, is that the Northern Tuli Game Reserve (of which Mashatu is the largest single landowner) is a nucleus for lions in the area. This became clear upon observing the dispersal, emigration and general movement of lions from within the Northern Tuli GR into neighboring areas. Reserves which had no lions, or very small lion populations, now have growing populations, thanks to the protection of land and the work done within the Northern Tuli GR.
As Dr Andrei Snyman writes, “There are only six lion “strongholds” across the continent of Africa – that is, areas that each have more than 1,000 lions. The future of lions and the conservation of this remarkable species rests not on these six large populations, but the multitude of smaller, interconnected lion populations scattered across a human-dominated landscape.”
Dr. Snyman added that despite the increase of lion numbers in the Northern Tuli GR and surrounding areas, it is estimated that lion numbers have declined 43% in the past 3 lion generations, stretching over about 20 years. There are as few as 20,000 lions left across Africa, occupying only 8 percent of their historic range.
With lion populations vanishing across the African continent, the need to protect the remaining populations have become critical. Through science and research, the Northern Tuli GR has solid baseline data to continue its conservation efforts to protect and conserve the lions and other big cats of the area.
In our blog post next Friday, we take a look at some of Africa’s beautiful and interesting birds including the ostrich, secretarybird, herons, storks, flamingoes, birds of prey, hornbills and cranes.
JOHANNESBURG SIGHTSEEING
JOHANNESBURG SIGHTSEEING
South Africa’s City of Gold – Johannesburg – is widely referred to as Joburg (not ‘Joberg’ mind you) or sometimes Joeys and even Jozi for short. You can even use ‘Egoli’ which means ‘place of gold’. For those in the know, the city has become more than simply an overnight stop between flights. Johannesburg has been described as “the new cool capital of the Southern Hemisphere”. Done the right way, it is a destination which merits a minimum two night stay.
Most visitors end up staying in Sandton, Rosebank, somewhere in the northern suburbs, or close to the airport. That’s ok, as long as you don’t confuse business centers like Sandton and Rosebank – with their business hotels and shopping malls – with the city itself. Downtown Joburg is where it all happens: the street life, the architecture, art installations, food & drinks, graffiti, the rough edges which make it alive and interesting. Here are a few of our top recommendations for inclusion in a Joburg tour:
Liliesleaf farm, Rivonia. Closely associated with the struggle against apartheid; this is where the top leadership of Umkonto we Sizwe (ANC) was arrested in 1963. Fascinating story well told with a variety of media & exhibits. Be sure to put this high on your list of places to see in Joburg.
Apartheid Museum: Travel back in time and discover the story of South Africa’s black citizens who lived under an apartheid government for more than 40 years. You’ll also learn about the country’s subsequent path to democracy. A recent (June 2018) visit underscored just how powerful and moving an experience this is. Don’t try to rush it; it takes 2 hours minimum and ideally 3 to even 4 hours to do justice to this wide-ranging and well-done museum.
Constitution Hill, Braamfontein. Tour the site of the notorious Old Fort Prison Complex, where political activists such as Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi were once held. Now home to the Constitutional Court, a museum and art gallery. Definitely worthwhile.
Cradle of Humankind: This UNESCO World Heritage Site features some of the oldest early-human fossils ever found. Explore the limestone caves where many of the fossils were discovered notably Sterkfontein where the ancient fossil of Mrs. Ples was found in 1947.
I visited Sterkfontein myself for the first time in May 2017 and the underground walk into Sterkfontein Cave was a revelation and definitely worth the trip out there. The local guide succeeded admirably in re-creating the atmosphere of what the place must have been like about 2-million years or so ago, when Mrs Ples fell into a hole in the ground. The nearby museum/visitor’s center – known as Maropeng – is fine for children but does not hold much appeal otherwise. A quick walk-through is sufficient. For me, the most interesting feature was the time-scale walkway which visually illustrates the passage of time from the present back to the ‘Big Bang’ which took place about 4 billion years or so ago.
Origins Centre at Witwatersrand University, Braamfontein. The Origins Centre is a museum dedicated to exploring and celebrating the history of modern humankind, telling the story of the emergence of human beings and humanity in southern Africa. Checking out the interactive multi-media presentation focusing on the San people is by far the best use of your time here; the adjacent ‘Fossil Museum’ is more of a static exhibit but also interesting.
Maboneng Precinct – a vibrant neighborhood in what was once a ‘no go’ area of Joburg. Maboneng, meaning “Place of Light,” is a renovated warehouse district with a chic, creative atmosphere that attracts many artists. The area features independent retail shops, galleries, restaurants and entertainment venues. Maboneng stretches over several city blocks and is best experienced with a guide who knows the area. There is a food market on Sundays; several good options for coffee, lunch and dinner throughout the week. On a recent visit I spent a night at a hotel in the area (Hallmark House). I was able to make good use of the time there, exploring (with a professional guide), several colorful graffiti sites and other places of interest in Maboneng and surroundings.
Downtown Johannesburg: Joburg’s downtown – here referred to as the Central Business District or CBD – has a fascinating mixture of architecture including Victorian, art deco and contemporary. Always a lively street scene. The area is safely explored on the City Sightseeing bus which has an audio guide. It is also possible to do a walking tour along Main Street. Nearby Hillbrow and Berea are best visited in the company of a local guide. It is a melting pot of African cultures as can clearly be seen from the presence of large numbers of Nigerians, Zimbabweans, Congolese and Somalians and smaller groups of other African nationals who stream to Johannesburg in search of a better life.
Soweto – Short for “South Western Townships,” Soweto is Johannesburg’s must-see city-within-the-city, and includes 21 different townships. Discover the lively mix of local restaurants and fascinating heritage sites including Hector Pieterson Museum, Regina Mundi Church, Mandela House, Vilakazi Street & Credo Mutwa Cultural Village. Finally, a township tour of Soweto is a fascinating cultural experience, incorporating several wonderful museums, fun shebeens (bars) and historic sites.
Getting around: We recommend using a specialist private local guide to accompany you on your exploration of Joburg; the guide will make it that much easier and more safe, to experience the sights and sounds of Joburg as well as its culture, architecture and archaeology.
For the independent traveler and more daring spirits, there are several other transport options. The Gautrain service operates direct from Oliver Tambo Airport and connects Sandton to Braamfontein in eight minutes. The City Sightseeing hop-on hop-off red bus goes from Braamfontein to the Central Business District, Newtown and around Braamfontein, and its red shuttles link to Soweto. The Mabogo shuttle connects to Maboneng, which can also be reached in just minutes with Uber.
Uber is easy to use and cheap in Johannesburg; however please note that there has been some friction between the city’s dominant taxi associations/drivers and Uber drivers. This can lead to violence so be sure to ask your hotel concierge for guidance and advice. Pickup and drop-off at the hotel will likely be as safe as using Uber anywhere else.
Just like elsewhere in Africa, driving on a public road is dangerous in South Africa. The country has more than double the number of road fatalities (based on the number of vehicles on the road) than the United States. So if you are going to venture out on the roads, the safest option is with a professional touring company, with a qualified & experienced local driver-guide behind the wheel. We assist all our clients with making their touring arrangements, depending on their particular interests and the time at their disposal.